Florence

Florence! 
I arrive in Florence and double check the directions from my b&b...these are my kind of directions! "there are three exits from the train station, left center and right...take the exit on the right and go down the stairs. Go right again. Down the street you will see an intersection with lights, do not cross it, instead turn left on Fratelli Roselli because we are the first door on the left. I'm not saying that I didn't walk right past it, I'm just saying the directions were perfect! But it gets better because running/owning B&B Il Marzocco is Marco. He is beyond wonderful and so excited to tell me all about Florence! In the course of our conversation, I mention that I've just come from Venice and may have overindulged just a little. He laughs and says that's Venice! Marco used to sell wool so he traveled quite a bit. He said he was havung breakfast in Venice one morning about 8:30 am. He asked for a coffee and croissant. A few minutes later an older woman came in, she had been to the market and had several bags of food. She sat beside him and ordered a grappa! He was shocked , but the bartender looked at him and said "it's Venice!" I'm feeling better that it was simply the town and not me. (also grateful that the girls and I didn't meet each other earlier in Rome where they're studying...would we have survived?) in the course of describing what do do in Florence, Marco is also giving me a history lesson or two...wait until you see my map! It's so great! My head is swimming a little bit, though. I'll never remember everything;( Marco says, tonight, you are tired. You should stay close for dinner and start fresh in the morning. He also says, you don't  do everything...you must choose. Otherwise he says I'll be like the Asian tourist taking pictures but not taking the experience. Seriously, Marco gets me! And the thing about Marco is that I'm sure he was great at selling wool, but he's totally found his calling as the owner of a b&b! He loves this town! Some stories I think he's been told his whole life (46 years) and others he tells me he's researched online. I love his dedication and passion! And he is now (with his wife) the father of two boys, 5 years old and 7 months old! (both so cute! In pictures and real life! Darling wife, too! I've met the family!) although running a b&b is a huge undertaking, I think he's  glad to have a (huge) job that doesn't involve the travel! Oh, Marco I'll have to stay for days and my brain is swirling  I'm seriously getting dizzy! But he reminds me of Liam and Garvin and Ursula...people who love their cities and can't wait to show them off to you! I drop my bag freshen up and am ready for a good dinner and an early night. Marco wants to make sure I have the keys for the outside door (seriously, I'd be so much better off if I could just hire him to follow me or escort me, but I don't want him to have another moment away from that cute family!) I'm off! I think! I cant figure out the front door-how to get OUT? I have to go back up and bug Marco...he doesn't care! I'm at the wrong front door! Once I figure that out its easy! I'm off to a place he says is not the best, but good and close so I can have a good meal and sleep-no kidding, Marco gets me! I'm off! His directions are impeccable, of course. The food IS good, not great. But the atmosphere is fun. The kitchen is open and there is essentially one waitress holding down the fort. She's darling and another example of someone  who loves her job. She's always busy, but never so determined in a task that she can't wait on a customer. And always with a smile. Remember the pants Lisa Bonet was always wearing on Cosby? There is a girl wearing them here. Did she get them at a vintage shop? They could be Lisa's! I'm having the fixed price menu which comes with a dessert. The waitress is concerned about the chocolate ice cream they have-not enough cream, too bitter? If I don't like it, she wants to bring something else. Ok! She's just meeting me, too! Chocolate is pretty much always good to me;) and it is. The man next to me is not enjoying his meal as much. He has two phones out and is constantly checking them. Oh i remember those days! I'm walking home happy and ready to plop in bed! Which I do, because I can get inside thanks to Marco's reminder-keys! I meet Fredrica, Marco's compadre. She is darling, greets me by name and wonders if i found my way around-I think she's been talking to Marco! I decide to use the Internet in the lobby...why, i can't remember because it's free in my room? Anyway it's practically free in the lobby. But it's slow...Fredrica says its Italian Internet....in its own time;) she mentions the cold and I agree, but the views are different/better here than at home. Now she's up and clapping-that's it! I could live in Italy, she says. I take that as a compliment!  Plop! Happy! And I sleep! In the morning, Fredrica is there to greet me, by name. She reminds me to take the keys for the front door so that I can leave my bags here and go explore...she's on a Vespa and they're supposed to get snow tonight! Ugh! She's trying to make other arrangements. Something tells me she has plenty of friends and someone will be braving the snow to get her home safely;) 

I'm at Trattoria Casalinga. The queue for a table is long and hectic. The only other Americans waiting have a little melt down because three people have come in after them and just took over a table literally as the people were getting ready to leave. (I'm not even entirely sure everyone stood up before they sat down!) Everyone shrugs and moves on. They decide to try the same approach when a table in the corner opens up. Not gonna happen! That table is reserved for Ann.  I think I'll be Ann in my next life...she reserved the table for one pm at one shows up near two pm and her table is still waiting. She never orders a thing, but wine and various plates arrive and she digs in. How do I know this? Because I've got the table next to hers. I chose a different approach than my Philadelphian friends. I got my rosary out. The owner loved it and pretty soon he's yelling for a table for me;)
Oh thank God, I got the waitress to smile! She is running to take care of all of these tables upstairs and down, and no smile. I worry about what's going on when people aren't smiling. She's so good at her job, makes this huge thing seem effortless that now my stomach is starting to hurt wondering what's going in in her life:( The 1/2 liter looked huge. I asked for the smaller version. She says small for small and points to me and giggles. (I dont know who she thinks she is tall to in comparison, but I don't mention it!)  she's happy, I'm happy. I couldn't wait to taste the house wine. While I was waiting, I watched the owner "make" it, well blend it anyway. He takes boxed wine and pours it in the carafe, then adds chianti from a bottle.  Its not like he's doing it behind the scenes:) Yum the food is worth waiting for,  I should tell you how "I" found this place. I was lost trying to find someplace that Marco had recommended. Anyway, I'm walking over a bridge (which definitely wasn't in his directions and this Italian man starts talking to me, first in Italian (I wasn't actually thinking he was talking to me) then in English. He's so nice to guide me around a bit of construction. Now he's saying no go right here. Ok! He asks what I'd like to see, but I mention that I must eat first. He keeps us walking and then stops. This  place you like , it is Florence it is typical and good. There is another around the corner, good but more price. I'm staying here. I thank him and ask his name, Domenico! I tell him I know a Domenico (Mary) but she is crazy! He's laughs-it's the name;) What a great guy;)
The woman at the table next to me has taken apart her chicken like a surgeon! There is nothing left but bones. And she did it so eloquently! Unlike her table mate who is having a heck of a time navigating his salad in a tin bowl :( its like a bad band playing.
People are still coming in, but he is "cerrado" do you totally remember that from sesame street?!  What a fun place to work, it's crazy! I especially like the older men in the kitchen.  They are hilarious to watch and I bet funny to listen to, on the rare occasion they're talking. Mostly they dance around each other occasionally grunted or motioning. They have this thing down and thank goodness  because the place is hopping! 
Three more people come in, the host is not around so I motion to them that it's very good but not open;( 
I love carpaccio, but this is ridiculous. I could sit and enjoy it for hours! And I may! Probably should have gotten the half liter! On the way to Rome I was reading an article about how all the trucks were on strike so it would  e very difficult to find fresh meats mostly, but also fresh cheeses in Italy and especially in Rome. I did not find that to be the case and think maybe strikes are just such the norm in Italy and that they make do in other ways. 

The man who has taken over Ann's table is Francesco-Frank, he says. He wants to know my scoop. He's a high school professor in Latin, Italian and history. We talk about how life is such a blessing, and he says, yes! But this IS your life! So blessed. Our waitress walks by and tells me, not so much asks but tells me i need another glass of wine. What am i going to say? Especially if Frank and I are going to be solving world issues!Oh I'm so glad to see people coming from the back room because I can have one more bite of this glorious carpaccio  plus I plan to use the ladies room here, it's free! gotta love a free bathroom;) but my waitress is not ready for me to leave...fruit or dolce? What a choice! Is there chocolate! Huge grin and she just turns and walks away. She comes back with profiteroles! YUM! They're waaaaay better than we used to have at Fedora, but the company is not as good, Dad;) 

Walk walk walk! I love this town! I know I've said it about everywhere I've been, but the architecture is just so amazing! I'm always looking up! I go to the  duomo to pray and  light candles of course. It's gorgeous. I have to stop at every spot inside-there's just so much to see! Now I've got to be serious and see a couple more sites! Do you know that you can just grab a sandwich and cup of wine and walk? I am loving my life! I'm walking through Florence and all these beautiful buildings with a cup of wine! Happy blessed girl!

On board my train its raining scarves! Actually just one fell from the overhead and the an it belongs to is so embarrassed. I think it's hilarious. Kind of surprising to have cashmere rain down on you;)

Snow! Snowing! Grapes are freezing on the vine-ice wine ? Seriously...cold as ice is playing again. Sometimes my musical's music is so ON!