Genova?

Genova? 

I don't know why. It just looked cute in pictures and seemed like it was in the general direction of Paris, at least from where I am:) I thought I would just come, drop my bag at the station and walk the city...then get back on a train to Lyon toward Paris. But when I get to the bigglieteri, she says no. I show her the trains and times, etc. that I looked up. No, she says. Bad information. Bummer! So I check the bag and set off to explore the city. It is freezing! It's also very pretty. I love that shutters on a house are actually useful! They are opened or closed or bent part way depending on how much/little you want to let in. I'm so surprised any of them are open today...it's so cold....the wind off the water....brrrr! And of course there are clothes lines full again. I can't see the clothes moving in the breeze but they don't seem frozen either-conundrum! I find the "art museum to the world" and think they probably have a tea room-I'm very spoiled about my tea! Especially in this weather. I see the sign out advertising for the tea room, but the door won't open....they probably want people to enter through the gift shop. Ok! The gift shop is open, but everything else is closed...museum, tea room..:( the view is amazing from up here so I push myself between little sections of the castle wall and look down over the sea:) now for some HOT tea! Typical of me, I wander randomly until I see a coffee shop I think is open...it is! I order my tea, but ask for the ladies room while it's steeping. This little place is modeled after a boat so you go up this little spiral staircase...so cute! When I finish my tea and think I can brave the cold again there are just three other guys in the place-all polizzia. I take my teapot and cup and saucer up to the counter. One of the officers asks me why? I say she told me to bring it to the counter or mop the floors! Ahhhh! You make the right decision! (he knows I'm kidding!) Where have I been today? Have I been here? Have I been there? finally he understands that I just arrived, I haven't really been anywhere.  Do you have a map? Of course! (I always have about three maps of whatever city I'm in because every time I ask for directions they want to give me a new map.)  Now he's got the map out...where are you going to have dinner? Do you know your hotel? What do you like to eat? I don't see me leaving Genova tonight. Plus a man has just walked in with a  black lab-Theo-with a hard "t". He is so cute and is loving some affection! (the dog, I don't know the man's name, but he is sad about Guinness, too) So, after much discussion between the two women running the boat place and the three policemen, Alex and I are off. He has two thoughts for a clean safe inexpensive place for me to stay and two ideas for me for dinner. As we're walking I remark about the flower stand in the piazza we're walking through. It is unseasonably cold, but the flowers are gorgeous! Yes we are lucky. He says.  Very! There are so many places for me to see, he encourages me to see it all...right now we are walking down the oldest street in Genova! You must have Genova food! He knows it's a no go for fish, but there are so many other things! We arrive at the first hotel. It looks fine, the price works, it's en suite, they both agree it's safe, ok! Now dinner? The woman behind the counter at the hotel gets out a map-perfect, one more to add to the stash! She and Alex are having a blast trying to come up with the name of the place he really wants me to go for dinner. Finally he writes it in the map along with a few other options (don't confuse me!) then he writes down his cell phone number. If I get lost, if someone is bothering me, if I need directions for lunch...my new best friend's name is Alex and he's a doll! Before he leaves he gives me directions one more time, verbally and in writing on the map. Seriously, he is cracking me up! He tells me to remember the flower stand-that's a good landmark, when I get to the next piazza over just yell out loud for the street name. When I get on that street just call out the name of the restaurant and someone will lead me to it. He has me practice yelling the name;) love this guy! I drop my bag and freshen up a little, get online a little and I'm off! 

You're not going to believe this...I found it! I didn't even need to yell out the name, although I was tempted. It is so cute! White-washed walls and furniture with tea lights hanging in little glass votives from the beams across the ceiling like the ones we get from Mary Carol. They don't do dinner. I'm thinking I will have to arrest Alex for false information. The host laughs....I don't think he understands me, but probably puts  "polizzia" and the eye roll together. I show him on the map where  Alex has written where to go. He says yes...just wine and a bite. Perfect! I get a glass of red and head upstairs! Pretty soon he brings up a round silver tray (I'm getting spoiled by this silver tray service, and I love it!) of nibblies! I can't remember the last time I've had a carrot! Just a plain old carrot! Yum! there is an assortment of little breads with spreads, mini quiches that are definitely homemade and carrots! It's the perfect meal! Every so often you can feel the metro swish by underneath the restaurant. It's kind of a fun reminder of where we are. They have mirror topped tables that allow you to see the beautiful ceiling treatments. The wood is so old it takes on a really pretty and varied color of white. Against the perpendicular wall is a farm table with a faded pink couch whose springs are clearly sprung but it just adds to the ambiance. Love this place! On the stereo is " Everybody wants to rule the world"  if I just had a glass of wine, I'd feel it was possible ;) Now its Should I stay or should I go? Steve Watts sang that to me in 8th grade. Funny! 
The host does not come up to offer more wine...something had to be un-perfect, right? I'm  thinking he's very French but then I remind myself that I'm headed to France tomorrow! His hair is defying all gravity, but it works for him, it's the designer sweatpants I can't get behind! ooh! Here he comes! I ask for another glass and when he brings it back a girl from each of the other two remaining tables run to him and order another round for their prospective tables.  Again, I should be on commission (is there a job out there like this? Sign me up! It kind of reminds me of when Blue Moose first opened in the Village. The manager was always giving me his card with a free this/that/other/all of the above written on it-just keep bringing your friends! I may still have one of those cards!) 
The table where the loud girls are (there were four, now three and they're louder without her;)) is so cute it's tucked in a large window with benches on the three sides. Instead of having a couch look for the center of the "u" shape, they've added a painting of sorts to just suggest that a couch exists. And the benches aren't ...deluxe? They look hand made with hand made cushions on them covered in flax tea towels. Really they're like shams! And they're back lit. It so works. Bridget, are you paying attention for when we finally open our b&b/cafe/event space? Love is in the Air is on and I'm feeling sentimental? This wasn't of my era, was it? Ok, seriously, Suzann! Did you finish your mix tape because I'm in the middle of it again! "I need you tonight"  "Just the way you are?" Oh now it's Elton John "Your Song"! I haven't heard ithis since Piazza Navona...of course it had different words then;) oh I love this trip! I am so grateful! Very sad that it's coming to an end, but very grateful! Bette Davis Eyes! Ashley, I'm at your birthday party at Red Balloon! Seriously, I could stay here all night;) I love it! I didn't even have chocolate and I love it:) and after asking directions a few times, I'm home! So glad I stayed in Genova! 

In the morning, I drop my bag at the station, buy my ticket to Paris and I'm off to explore! Such freedom without that backpack! This town is so cute! I find the perfect church to light some candles, so if I do nothing else, I feel accomplished! But the town is so fun to wander. If it was warmer (like 10 or even warmer!) I'd want to be out on a boat! The shopping is awesome. I find a little store that I want to just put a bow on and ship to some girls I know in Chicago;) And I find another store full of things I just might want to ship to me! But where? Then I see the TI. I don't know why, but I go in. He has a suggestion for lunch, and I take it! Cafe Maria... its just a couple of piazzas down so I get to shop more on the way;) Wait! This is a total flashback of Florence! It's a place just like that...very small, huge line...nobody thinking a thing of waiting in it. When the hostess (well I thought she was the hostess, she's really the everything) looks my way I say and motion that I'm just one for lunch. I can see her filing it in her brain. She's very Audrey Hepburn....tiny little thing! Eventually...and I'm talking two minutes! (Am I the luckiest girl) she points to a man sitting by himself and says something in Italian, he answers in Italian and that's where I'm seated. I slowly scootch past all the people waiting in line and sit with this guy. I love the menu! I don't have one, but I see other people do. It's a xeroxed copy of dishes in someone's handwriting. Audrey is leaning over a table with about eight people who are just getting to know each other-I love this kind of seating! Anyway, Audrey has a  red marker and is marking through the dishes that they're out of. Things are going fast!
Initially what I figure out about my tablemate  is that he's Italian, doesn't think he speaks good English (he really does) and he's eaten here before.  Also, he prefers white where as I prefer red, especially when it's 2 degrees outside (it doesn't matter Celsius vs Fahrenheit, 2 is 2 2 2 cold!)   Marco makes sure to fill my glass as needed (the carafe is darling but the glasses  are like shot glass size) and orders for me...I'm on an accidental date again! How does this happen? It works out well though because he knows someone in the kitchen, tells him I'm American and haven't been to Genova before. I never do order. Marco and the cook just make it happen! Yum! The best pesto! (you girls like pesto?) and ravioli and a beef dish almost like a stew all soooo good!
A couple slides into the table behind me and they have a puppy! Well, not puppy, but the cutest old golden retriever. I have to pet him! He's so darling and not bothered by the hectic crowds at all;) 
Hot chocolate is a must after lunch, well for me. Marco has coffee. Marco is a classic Italian man in his 40s salt and pepper hair, good looking. And just like a stereotypical Italian, completely propositions me with no regard to the fact that he's got a wedding ring on  and we've just been talking about his wife and son. Way to ruin lunch, Marco! Plus you're giving Marcos out there a bad name;(
Goodbye Marco! I'm off to explore more of your town-alone! It's a fun town to walk because it's so hilly and the views are amazing! 

Classic Megan....I have two hours left so I head in the swanky Hotel Savoie and ask if they're serving a bite to eat and some wine...oh no, not for two hours. He  did roll his eyes when I came in ...he claims he thought I was his colleague. But two minutes later I am seated in a grand salon with food and wine on its way....this is how you say goodbye to a city! Filippo is darling. I can tell he's been here a hundred years and seen it all. He looks exactly like a waiter out of a movie! He mentions that they have had about 60 cancellations today because the cold weather, snow and high winds have canceled trains and flights. We are in agreement that if my train is cancelled I am not leaving this (beautiful blue with damask print and fabulous legs) sofa. Yes, he says, wine for us both! Actually, if my train is cancelled, I think I'll move around this gorgeous salon to take advantage of every view point-remember when you and I and Katie did that at your condo, Molly? Of course, we had a drink at each spot! 
Hooray, Filippo is singing! You know I think it's a sign of a happy person, so yay! There is a beautiful baby grand piano in the salon which makes me so grateful I don't play...who knows what I'd be playing or singing!  
Filippo brings me a big cheeseburger with no fewer than five huge slices of tomato-and they look really nice as I set them to the side. I wasn't exactly sure what was coming...i just said, Surprise me, Filippo! 
I love my surroundings! There are curly cue ribbon venetian glass lights down walls like pillars and in swooshes on the ceilings.  I'm in the center of it all on a sofa with chairs and an ottoman. There's a sleigh daybed in the corner, two luxurious  chaise lounges that I'm afraid to get in (I'd never leave!) and four sections of little velvet sofas and chairs. 
I like how Filippo checks on me in secret.  He also reminds me how much I prefer the white to a plain black tuxedo. Aaaah, this is the life. I toast the town and head to the train station;)