Genova?
I don't know why. It just looked cute in pictures and seemed like it was in the general direction of Paris, at least from where I am:) I thought I would just come, drop my bag at the station and walk the city...then get back on a train to Lyon toward Paris. But when I get to the bigglieteri, she says no. I show her the trains and times, etc. that I looked up. No, she says. Bad information. Bummer! So I check the bag and set off to explore the city. It is freezing! It's also very pretty. I love that shutters on a house are actually useful! They are opened or closed or bent part way depending on how much/little you want to let in. I'm so surprised any of them are open today...it's so cold....the wind off the water....brrrr! And of course there are clothes lines full again. I can't see the clothes moving in the breeze but they don't seem frozen either-conundrum! I find the "art museum to the world" and think they probably have a tea room-I'm very spoiled about my tea! Especially in this weather. I see the sign out advertising for the tea room, but the door won't open....they probably want people to enter through the gift shop. Ok! The gift shop is open, but everything else is closed...museum, tea room..:( the view is amazing from up here so I push myself between little sections of the castle wall and look down over the sea:) now for some HOT tea! Typical of me, I wander randomly until I see a coffee shop I think is open...it is! I order my tea, but ask for the ladies room while it's steeping. This little place is modeled after a boat so you go up this little spiral staircase...so cute! When I finish my tea and think I can brave the cold again there are just three other guys in the place-all polizzia. I take my teapot and cup and saucer up to the counter. One of the officers asks me why? I say she told me to bring it to the counter or mop the floors! Ahhhh! You make the right decision! (he knows I'm kidding!) Where have I been today? Have I been here? Have I been there? finally he understands that I just arrived, I haven't really been anywhere. Do you have a map? Of course! (I always have about three maps of whatever city I'm in because every time I ask for directions they want to give me a new map.) Now he's got the map out...where are you going to have dinner? Do you know your hotel? What do you like to eat? I don't see me leaving Genova tonight. Plus a man has just walked in with a black lab-Theo-with a hard "t". He is so cute and is loving some affection! (the dog, I don't know the man's name, but he is sad about Guinness, too) So, after much discussion between the two women running the boat place and the three policemen, Alex and I are off. He has two thoughts for a clean safe inexpensive place for me to stay and two ideas for me for dinner. As we're walking I remark about the flower stand in the piazza we're walking through. It is unseasonably cold, but the flowers are gorgeous! Yes we are lucky. He says. Very! There are so many places for me to see, he encourages me to see it all...right now we are walking down the oldest street in Genova! You must have Genova food! He knows it's a no go for fish, but there are so many other things! We arrive at the first hotel. It looks fine, the price works, it's en suite, they both agree it's safe, ok! Now dinner? The woman behind the counter at the hotel gets out a map-perfect, one more to add to the stash! She and Alex are having a blast trying to come up with the name of the place he really wants me to go for dinner. Finally he writes it in the map along with a few other options (don't confuse me!) then he writes down his cell phone number. If I get lost, if someone is bothering me, if I need directions for lunch...my new best friend's name is Alex and he's a doll! Before he leaves he gives me directions one more time, verbally and in writing on the map. Seriously, he is cracking me up! He tells me to remember the flower stand-that's a good landmark, when I get to the next piazza over just yell out loud for the street name. When I get on that street just call out the name of the restaurant and someone will lead me to it. He has me practice yelling the name;) love this guy! I drop my bag and freshen up a little, get online a little and I'm off!
You're not going to believe this...I found it! I didn't even need to yell out the name, although I was tempted. It is so cute! White-washed walls and furniture with tea lights hanging in little glass votives from the beams across the ceiling like the ones we get from Mary Carol. They don't do dinner. I'm thinking I will have to arrest Alex for false information. The host laughs....I don't think he understands me, but probably puts "polizzia" and the eye roll together. I show him on the map where Alex has written where to go. He says yes...just wine and a bite. Perfect! I get a glass of red and head upstairs! Pretty soon he brings up a round silver tray (I'm getting spoiled by this silver tray service, and I love it!) of nibblies! I can't remember the last time I've had a carrot! Just a plain old carrot! Yum! there is an assortment of little breads with spreads, mini quiches that are definitely homemade and carrots! It's the perfect meal! Every so often you can feel the metro swish by underneath the restaurant. It's kind of a fun reminder of where we are. They have mirror topped tables that allow you to see the beautiful ceiling treatments. The wood is so old it takes on a really pretty and varied color of white. Against the perpendicular wall is a farm table with a faded pink couch whose springs are clearly sprung but it just adds to the ambiance. Love this place! On the stereo is " Everybody wants to rule the world" if I just had a glass of wine, I'd feel it was possible ;) Now its Should I stay or should I go? Steve Watts sang that to me in 8th grade. Funny!
The host does not come up to offer more wine...something had to be un-perfect, right? I'm thinking he's very French but then I remind myself that I'm headed to France tomorrow! His hair is defying all gravity, but it works for him, it's the designer sweatpants I can't get behind! ooh! Here he comes! I ask for another glass and when he brings it back a girl from each of the other two remaining tables run to him and order another round for their prospective tables. Again, I should be on commission (is there a job out there like this? Sign me up! It kind of reminds me of when Blue Moose first opened in the Village. The manager was always giving me his card with a free this/that/other/all of the above written on it-just keep bringing your friends! I may still have one of those cards!)
The table where the loud girls are (there were four, now three and they're louder without her;)) is so cute it's tucked in a large window with benches on the three sides. Instead of having a couch look for the center of the "u" shape, they've added a painting of sorts to just suggest that a couch exists. And the benches aren't ...deluxe? They look hand made with hand made cushions on them covered in flax tea towels. Really they're like shams! And they're back lit. It so works. Bridget, are you paying attention for when we finally open our b&b/cafe/event space? Love is in the Air is on and I'm feeling sentimental? This wasn't of my era, was it? Ok, seriously, Suzann! Did you finish your mix tape because I'm in the middle of it again! "I need you tonight" "Just the way you are?" Oh now it's Elton John "Your Song"! I haven't heard ithis since Piazza Navona...of course it had different words then;) oh I love this trip! I am so grateful! Very sad that it's coming to an end, but very grateful! Bette Davis Eyes! Ashley, I'm at your birthday party at Red Balloon! Seriously, I could stay here all night;) I love it! I didn't even have chocolate and I love it:) and after asking directions a few times, I'm home! So glad I stayed in Genova!
In the morning, I drop my bag at the station, buy my ticket to Paris and I'm off to explore! Such freedom without that backpack! This town is so cute! I find the perfect church to light some candles, so if I do nothing else, I feel accomplished! But the town is so fun to wander. If it was warmer (like 10 or even warmer!) I'd want to be out on a boat! The shopping is awesome. I find a little store that I want to just put a bow on and ship to some girls I know in Chicago;) And I find another store full of things I just might want to ship to me! But where? Then I see the TI. I don't know why, but I go in. He has a suggestion for lunch, and I take it! Cafe Maria... its just a couple of piazzas down so I get to shop more on the way;) Wait! This is a total flashback of Florence! It's a place just like that...very small, huge line...nobody thinking a thing of waiting in it. When the hostess (well I thought she was the hostess, she's really the everything) looks my way I say and motion that I'm just one for lunch. I can see her filing it in her brain. She's very Audrey Hepburn....tiny little thing! Eventually...and I'm talking two minutes! (Am I the luckiest girl) she points to a man sitting by himself and says something in Italian, he answers in Italian and that's where I'm seated. I slowly scootch past all the people waiting in line and sit with this guy. I love the menu! I don't have one, but I see other people do. It's a xeroxed copy of dishes in someone's handwriting. Audrey is leaning over a table with about eight people who are just getting to know each other-I love this kind of seating! Anyway, Audrey has a red marker and is marking through the dishes that they're out of. Things are going fast!
Initially what I figure out about my tablemate is that he's Italian, doesn't think he speaks good English (he really does) and he's eaten here before. Also, he prefers white where as I prefer red, especially when it's 2 degrees outside (it doesn't matter Celsius vs Fahrenheit, 2 is 2 2 2 cold!) Marco makes sure to fill my glass as needed (the carafe is darling but the glasses are like shot glass size) and orders for me...I'm on an accidental date again! How does this happen? It works out well though because he knows someone in the kitchen, tells him I'm American and haven't been to Genova before. I never do order. Marco and the cook just make it happen! Yum! The best pesto! (you girls like pesto?) and ravioli and a beef dish almost like a stew all soooo good!
A couple slides into the table behind me and they have a puppy! Well, not puppy, but the cutest old golden retriever. I have to pet him! He's so darling and not bothered by the hectic crowds at all;)
Hot chocolate is a must after lunch, well for me. Marco has coffee. Marco is a classic Italian man in his 40s salt and pepper hair, good looking. And just like a stereotypical Italian, completely propositions me with no regard to the fact that he's got a wedding ring on and we've just been talking about his wife and son. Way to ruin lunch, Marco! Plus you're giving Marcos out there a bad name;(
Goodbye Marco! I'm off to explore more of your town-alone! It's a fun town to walk because it's so hilly and the views are amazing!
Classic Megan....I have two hours left so I head in the swanky Hotel Savoie and ask if they're serving a bite to eat and some wine...oh no, not for two hours. He did roll his eyes when I came in ...he claims he thought I was his colleague. But two minutes later I am seated in a grand salon with food and wine on its way....this is how you say goodbye to a city! Filippo is darling. I can tell he's been here a hundred years and seen it all. He looks exactly like a waiter out of a movie! He mentions that they have had about 60 cancellations today because the cold weather, snow and high winds have canceled trains and flights. We are in agreement that if my train is cancelled I am not leaving this (beautiful blue with damask print and fabulous legs) sofa. Yes, he says, wine for us both! Actually, if my train is cancelled, I think I'll move around this gorgeous salon to take advantage of every view point-remember when you and I and Katie did that at your condo, Molly? Of course, we had a drink at each spot!
Hooray, Filippo is singing! You know I think it's a sign of a happy person, so yay! There is a beautiful baby grand piano in the salon which makes me so grateful I don't play...who knows what I'd be playing or singing!
Filippo brings me a big cheeseburger with no fewer than five huge slices of tomato-and they look really nice as I set them to the side. I wasn't exactly sure what was coming...i just said, Surprise me, Filippo!
I love my surroundings! There are curly cue ribbon venetian glass lights down walls like pillars and in swooshes on the ceilings. I'm in the center of it all on a sofa with chairs and an ottoman. There's a sleigh daybed in the corner, two luxurious chaise lounges that I'm afraid to get in (I'd never leave!) and four sections of little velvet sofas and chairs.
I like how Filippo checks on me in secret. He also reminds me how much I prefer the white to a plain black tuxedo. Aaaah, this is the life. I toast the town and head to the train station;)
Friday, February 17, 2012
Thursday, February 16, 2012
Florence
Florence!
I arrive in Florence and double check the directions from my b&b...these are my kind of directions! "there are three exits from the train station, left center and right...take the exit on the right and go down the stairs. Go right again. Down the street you will see an intersection with lights, do not cross it, instead turn left on Fratelli Roselli because we are the first door on the left. I'm not saying that I didn't walk right past it, I'm just saying the directions were perfect! But it gets better because running/owning B&B Il Marzocco is Marco. He is beyond wonderful and so excited to tell me all about Florence! In the course of our conversation, I mention that I've just come from Venice and may have overindulged just a little. He laughs and says that's Venice! Marco used to sell wool so he traveled quite a bit. He said he was havung breakfast in Venice one morning about 8:30 am. He asked for a coffee and croissant. A few minutes later an older woman came in, she had been to the market and had several bags of food. She sat beside him and ordered a grappa! He was shocked , but the bartender looked at him and said "it's Venice!" I'm feeling better that it was simply the town and not me. (also grateful that the girls and I didn't meet each other earlier in Rome where they're studying...would we have survived?) in the course of describing what do do in Florence, Marco is also giving me a history lesson or two...wait until you see my map! It's so great! My head is swimming a little bit, though. I'll never remember everything;( Marco says, tonight, you are tired. You should stay close for dinner and start fresh in the morning. He also says, you don't do everything...you must choose. Otherwise he says I'll be like the Asian tourist taking pictures but not taking the experience. Seriously, Marco gets me! And the thing about Marco is that I'm sure he was great at selling wool, but he's totally found his calling as the owner of a b&b! He loves this town! Some stories I think he's been told his whole life (46 years) and others he tells me he's researched online. I love his dedication and passion! And he is now (with his wife) the father of two boys, 5 years old and 7 months old! (both so cute! In pictures and real life! Darling wife, too! I've met the family!) although running a b&b is a huge undertaking, I think he's glad to have a (huge) job that doesn't involve the travel! Oh, Marco I'll have to stay for days and my brain is swirling I'm seriously getting dizzy! But he reminds me of Liam and Garvin and Ursula...people who love their cities and can't wait to show them off to you! I drop my bag freshen up and am ready for a good dinner and an early night. Marco wants to make sure I have the keys for the outside door (seriously, I'd be so much better off if I could just hire him to follow me or escort me, but I don't want him to have another moment away from that cute family!) I'm off! I think! I cant figure out the front door-how to get OUT? I have to go back up and bug Marco...he doesn't care! I'm at the wrong front door! Once I figure that out its easy! I'm off to a place he says is not the best, but good and close so I can have a good meal and sleep-no kidding, Marco gets me! I'm off! His directions are impeccable, of course. The food IS good, not great. But the atmosphere is fun. The kitchen is open and there is essentially one waitress holding down the fort. She's darling and another example of someone who loves her job. She's always busy, but never so determined in a task that she can't wait on a customer. And always with a smile. Remember the pants Lisa Bonet was always wearing on Cosby? There is a girl wearing them here. Did she get them at a vintage shop? They could be Lisa's! I'm having the fixed price menu which comes with a dessert. The waitress is concerned about the chocolate ice cream they have-not enough cream, too bitter? If I don't like it, she wants to bring something else. Ok! She's just meeting me, too! Chocolate is pretty much always good to me;) and it is. The man next to me is not enjoying his meal as much. He has two phones out and is constantly checking them. Oh i remember those days! I'm walking home happy and ready to plop in bed! Which I do, because I can get inside thanks to Marco's reminder-keys! I meet Fredrica, Marco's compadre. She is darling, greets me by name and wonders if i found my way around-I think she's been talking to Marco! I decide to use the Internet in the lobby...why, i can't remember because it's free in my room? Anyway it's practically free in the lobby. But it's slow...Fredrica says its Italian Internet....in its own time;) she mentions the cold and I agree, but the views are different/better here than at home. Now she's up and clapping-that's it! I could live in Italy, she says. I take that as a compliment! Plop! Happy! And I sleep! In the morning, Fredrica is there to greet me, by name. She reminds me to take the keys for the front door so that I can leave my bags here and go explore...she's on a Vespa and they're supposed to get snow tonight! Ugh! She's trying to make other arrangements. Something tells me she has plenty of friends and someone will be braving the snow to get her home safely;)
I'm at Trattoria Casalinga. The queue for a table is long and hectic. The only other Americans waiting have a little melt down because three people have come in after them and just took over a table literally as the people were getting ready to leave. (I'm not even entirely sure everyone stood up before they sat down!) Everyone shrugs and moves on. They decide to try the same approach when a table in the corner opens up. Not gonna happen! That table is reserved for Ann. I think I'll be Ann in my next life...she reserved the table for one pm at one shows up near two pm and her table is still waiting. She never orders a thing, but wine and various plates arrive and she digs in. How do I know this? Because I've got the table next to hers. I chose a different approach than my Philadelphian friends. I got my rosary out. The owner loved it and pretty soon he's yelling for a table for me;)
Oh thank God, I got the waitress to smile! She is running to take care of all of these tables upstairs and down, and no smile. I worry about what's going on when people aren't smiling. She's so good at her job, makes this huge thing seem effortless that now my stomach is starting to hurt wondering what's going in in her life:( The 1/2 liter looked huge. I asked for the smaller version. She says small for small and points to me and giggles. (I dont know who she thinks she is tall to in comparison, but I don't mention it!) she's happy, I'm happy. I couldn't wait to taste the house wine. While I was waiting, I watched the owner "make" it, well blend it anyway. He takes boxed wine and pours it in the carafe, then adds chianti from a bottle. Its not like he's doing it behind the scenes:) Yum the food is worth waiting for, I should tell you how "I" found this place. I was lost trying to find someplace that Marco had recommended. Anyway, I'm walking over a bridge (which definitely wasn't in his directions and this Italian man starts talking to me, first in Italian (I wasn't actually thinking he was talking to me) then in English. He's so nice to guide me around a bit of construction. Now he's saying no go right here. Ok! He asks what I'd like to see, but I mention that I must eat first. He keeps us walking and then stops. This place you like , it is Florence it is typical and good. There is another around the corner, good but more price. I'm staying here. I thank him and ask his name, Domenico! I tell him I know a Domenico (Mary) but she is crazy! He's laughs-it's the name;) What a great guy;)
The woman at the table next to me has taken apart her chicken like a surgeon! There is nothing left but bones. And she did it so eloquently! Unlike her table mate who is having a heck of a time navigating his salad in a tin bowl :( its like a bad band playing.
People are still coming in, but he is "cerrado" do you totally remember that from sesame street?! What a fun place to work, it's crazy! I especially like the older men in the kitchen. They are hilarious to watch and I bet funny to listen to, on the rare occasion they're talking. Mostly they dance around each other occasionally grunted or motioning. They have this thing down and thank goodness because the place is hopping!
Three more people come in, the host is not around so I motion to them that it's very good but not open;(
I love carpaccio, but this is ridiculous. I could sit and enjoy it for hours! And I may! Probably should have gotten the half liter! On the way to Rome I was reading an article about how all the trucks were on strike so it would e very difficult to find fresh meats mostly, but also fresh cheeses in Italy and especially in Rome. I did not find that to be the case and think maybe strikes are just such the norm in Italy and that they make do in other ways.
The man who has taken over Ann's table is Francesco-Frank, he says. He wants to know my scoop. He's a high school professor in Latin, Italian and history. We talk about how life is such a blessing, and he says, yes! But this IS your life! So blessed. Our waitress walks by and tells me, not so much asks but tells me i need another glass of wine. What am i going to say? Especially if Frank and I are going to be solving world issues!Oh I'm so glad to see people coming from the back room because I can have one more bite of this glorious carpaccio plus I plan to use the ladies room here, it's free! gotta love a free bathroom;) but my waitress is not ready for me to leave...fruit or dolce? What a choice! Is there chocolate! Huge grin and she just turns and walks away. She comes back with profiteroles! YUM! They're waaaaay better than we used to have at Fedora, but the company is not as good, Dad;)
Walk walk walk! I love this town! I know I've said it about everywhere I've been, but the architecture is just so amazing! I'm always looking up! I go to the duomo to pray and light candles of course. It's gorgeous. I have to stop at every spot inside-there's just so much to see! Now I've got to be serious and see a couple more sites! Do you know that you can just grab a sandwich and cup of wine and walk? I am loving my life! I'm walking through Florence and all these beautiful buildings with a cup of wine! Happy blessed girl!
On board my train its raining scarves! Actually just one fell from the overhead and the an it belongs to is so embarrassed. I think it's hilarious. Kind of surprising to have cashmere rain down on you;)
Snow! Snowing! Grapes are freezing on the vine-ice wine ? Seriously...cold as ice is playing again. Sometimes my musical's music is so ON!
I arrive in Florence and double check the directions from my b&b...these are my kind of directions! "there are three exits from the train station, left center and right...take the exit on the right and go down the stairs. Go right again. Down the street you will see an intersection with lights, do not cross it, instead turn left on Fratelli Roselli because we are the first door on the left. I'm not saying that I didn't walk right past it, I'm just saying the directions were perfect! But it gets better because running/owning B&B Il Marzocco is Marco. He is beyond wonderful and so excited to tell me all about Florence! In the course of our conversation, I mention that I've just come from Venice and may have overindulged just a little. He laughs and says that's Venice! Marco used to sell wool so he traveled quite a bit. He said he was havung breakfast in Venice one morning about 8:30 am. He asked for a coffee and croissant. A few minutes later an older woman came in, she had been to the market and had several bags of food. She sat beside him and ordered a grappa! He was shocked , but the bartender looked at him and said "it's Venice!" I'm feeling better that it was simply the town and not me. (also grateful that the girls and I didn't meet each other earlier in Rome where they're studying...would we have survived?) in the course of describing what do do in Florence, Marco is also giving me a history lesson or two...wait until you see my map! It's so great! My head is swimming a little bit, though. I'll never remember everything;( Marco says, tonight, you are tired. You should stay close for dinner and start fresh in the morning. He also says, you don't do everything...you must choose. Otherwise he says I'll be like the Asian tourist taking pictures but not taking the experience. Seriously, Marco gets me! And the thing about Marco is that I'm sure he was great at selling wool, but he's totally found his calling as the owner of a b&b! He loves this town! Some stories I think he's been told his whole life (46 years) and others he tells me he's researched online. I love his dedication and passion! And he is now (with his wife) the father of two boys, 5 years old and 7 months old! (both so cute! In pictures and real life! Darling wife, too! I've met the family!) although running a b&b is a huge undertaking, I think he's glad to have a (huge) job that doesn't involve the travel! Oh, Marco I'll have to stay for days and my brain is swirling I'm seriously getting dizzy! But he reminds me of Liam and Garvin and Ursula...people who love their cities and can't wait to show them off to you! I drop my bag freshen up and am ready for a good dinner and an early night. Marco wants to make sure I have the keys for the outside door (seriously, I'd be so much better off if I could just hire him to follow me or escort me, but I don't want him to have another moment away from that cute family!) I'm off! I think! I cant figure out the front door-how to get OUT? I have to go back up and bug Marco...he doesn't care! I'm at the wrong front door! Once I figure that out its easy! I'm off to a place he says is not the best, but good and close so I can have a good meal and sleep-no kidding, Marco gets me! I'm off! His directions are impeccable, of course. The food IS good, not great. But the atmosphere is fun. The kitchen is open and there is essentially one waitress holding down the fort. She's darling and another example of someone who loves her job. She's always busy, but never so determined in a task that she can't wait on a customer. And always with a smile. Remember the pants Lisa Bonet was always wearing on Cosby? There is a girl wearing them here. Did she get them at a vintage shop? They could be Lisa's! I'm having the fixed price menu which comes with a dessert. The waitress is concerned about the chocolate ice cream they have-not enough cream, too bitter? If I don't like it, she wants to bring something else. Ok! She's just meeting me, too! Chocolate is pretty much always good to me;) and it is. The man next to me is not enjoying his meal as much. He has two phones out and is constantly checking them. Oh i remember those days! I'm walking home happy and ready to plop in bed! Which I do, because I can get inside thanks to Marco's reminder-keys! I meet Fredrica, Marco's compadre. She is darling, greets me by name and wonders if i found my way around-I think she's been talking to Marco! I decide to use the Internet in the lobby...why, i can't remember because it's free in my room? Anyway it's practically free in the lobby. But it's slow...Fredrica says its Italian Internet....in its own time;) she mentions the cold and I agree, but the views are different/better here than at home. Now she's up and clapping-that's it! I could live in Italy, she says. I take that as a compliment! Plop! Happy! And I sleep! In the morning, Fredrica is there to greet me, by name. She reminds me to take the keys for the front door so that I can leave my bags here and go explore...she's on a Vespa and they're supposed to get snow tonight! Ugh! She's trying to make other arrangements. Something tells me she has plenty of friends and someone will be braving the snow to get her home safely;)
I'm at Trattoria Casalinga. The queue for a table is long and hectic. The only other Americans waiting have a little melt down because three people have come in after them and just took over a table literally as the people were getting ready to leave. (I'm not even entirely sure everyone stood up before they sat down!) Everyone shrugs and moves on. They decide to try the same approach when a table in the corner opens up. Not gonna happen! That table is reserved for Ann. I think I'll be Ann in my next life...she reserved the table for one pm at one shows up near two pm and her table is still waiting. She never orders a thing, but wine and various plates arrive and she digs in. How do I know this? Because I've got the table next to hers. I chose a different approach than my Philadelphian friends. I got my rosary out. The owner loved it and pretty soon he's yelling for a table for me;)
Oh thank God, I got the waitress to smile! She is running to take care of all of these tables upstairs and down, and no smile. I worry about what's going on when people aren't smiling. She's so good at her job, makes this huge thing seem effortless that now my stomach is starting to hurt wondering what's going in in her life:( The 1/2 liter looked huge. I asked for the smaller version. She says small for small and points to me and giggles. (I dont know who she thinks she is tall to in comparison, but I don't mention it!) she's happy, I'm happy. I couldn't wait to taste the house wine. While I was waiting, I watched the owner "make" it, well blend it anyway. He takes boxed wine and pours it in the carafe, then adds chianti from a bottle. Its not like he's doing it behind the scenes:) Yum the food is worth waiting for, I should tell you how "I" found this place. I was lost trying to find someplace that Marco had recommended. Anyway, I'm walking over a bridge (which definitely wasn't in his directions and this Italian man starts talking to me, first in Italian (I wasn't actually thinking he was talking to me) then in English. He's so nice to guide me around a bit of construction. Now he's saying no go right here. Ok! He asks what I'd like to see, but I mention that I must eat first. He keeps us walking and then stops. This place you like , it is Florence it is typical and good. There is another around the corner, good but more price. I'm staying here. I thank him and ask his name, Domenico! I tell him I know a Domenico (Mary) but she is crazy! He's laughs-it's the name;) What a great guy;)
The woman at the table next to me has taken apart her chicken like a surgeon! There is nothing left but bones. And she did it so eloquently! Unlike her table mate who is having a heck of a time navigating his salad in a tin bowl :( its like a bad band playing.
People are still coming in, but he is "cerrado" do you totally remember that from sesame street?! What a fun place to work, it's crazy! I especially like the older men in the kitchen. They are hilarious to watch and I bet funny to listen to, on the rare occasion they're talking. Mostly they dance around each other occasionally grunted or motioning. They have this thing down and thank goodness because the place is hopping!
Three more people come in, the host is not around so I motion to them that it's very good but not open;(
I love carpaccio, but this is ridiculous. I could sit and enjoy it for hours! And I may! Probably should have gotten the half liter! On the way to Rome I was reading an article about how all the trucks were on strike so it would e very difficult to find fresh meats mostly, but also fresh cheeses in Italy and especially in Rome. I did not find that to be the case and think maybe strikes are just such the norm in Italy and that they make do in other ways.
The man who has taken over Ann's table is Francesco-Frank, he says. He wants to know my scoop. He's a high school professor in Latin, Italian and history. We talk about how life is such a blessing, and he says, yes! But this IS your life! So blessed. Our waitress walks by and tells me, not so much asks but tells me i need another glass of wine. What am i going to say? Especially if Frank and I are going to be solving world issues!Oh I'm so glad to see people coming from the back room because I can have one more bite of this glorious carpaccio plus I plan to use the ladies room here, it's free! gotta love a free bathroom;) but my waitress is not ready for me to leave...fruit or dolce? What a choice! Is there chocolate! Huge grin and she just turns and walks away. She comes back with profiteroles! YUM! They're waaaaay better than we used to have at Fedora, but the company is not as good, Dad;)
Walk walk walk! I love this town! I know I've said it about everywhere I've been, but the architecture is just so amazing! I'm always looking up! I go to the duomo to pray and light candles of course. It's gorgeous. I have to stop at every spot inside-there's just so much to see! Now I've got to be serious and see a couple more sites! Do you know that you can just grab a sandwich and cup of wine and walk? I am loving my life! I'm walking through Florence and all these beautiful buildings with a cup of wine! Happy blessed girl!
On board my train its raining scarves! Actually just one fell from the overhead and the an it belongs to is so embarrassed. I think it's hilarious. Kind of surprising to have cashmere rain down on you;)
Snow! Snowing! Grapes are freezing on the vine-ice wine ? Seriously...cold as ice is playing again. Sometimes my musical's music is so ON!
Monday, February 6, 2012
Venice!
Venice!
It's an easy ride from Rome to Venice. I've grabbed a seat that I think will be going the right way and shimmy off my jacket and get out my iPad. I have on the cutest little dress (so sue me, I bought something!). A man walks by and then stops and comes back to me. I really do look cute! "please may I ?" the price tag is hanging out of the back of my dress. It is not a small tag either. "May I rip it off?" I remember reminding myself to tear it off but then I was distracted by all the lotions I had to choose from in the hotel. He tears it off and hands it to me smiling. "You are a little thief!" i am cracking up! "a beautiful little thief!" i love it! Next a couple comes and says they have that seat. Oh crap! I just remembered that in Italy even with a Eurail pass you have to reserve your seat( and pay extra for it)! Kind of explains the last train trip! I move across the way and a mother and daughter come and sit facing me. She explains that they don't have these seats but wanted to sit together. Do I mind? Nope (especially since this technically isn't my seat either) They are really cute. The daughter has her iPhone out and is listening to music. She puts one ear bud in her own ear and gives the other one to her mom, so cute! We are in first class so they bring us a complimentary drink and chocolate square. The girl immediately spills hers :( its one of those little glasses that seems to have a lot in it! She's spilled it on her lap but it's trickled into the aisle and is all over her coat which she was sitting on. I am no help. I have a mini pack of Kleenex which I give her. I tell the mom I will move and they can have my seat and the one next to it (how else can they do their cute music sharing thing?) she is too distracted to understand me. The girl is so grateful. God love her, we're only about 30 minutes into a two hour trip and she's drenched! When we get ready to alight, they are both at my seat thanking me. Of course! I'm going to make her sit in a wet seat? Yuck! No!
I see vineyards! In between tunnels, but still, they are growing my wine right in front of me;) thank you!
When I arrive in Venice the TIs are closed;( but the woman selling tickets for the vaparetto says its about 40 minutes and the guy on board will know where to exit. It's a nice ride! Ever the optimist, I'm thinking that this place is far but probably has the best restaurant right by it! When I exit I'm looking for someplace that has lights on so I can ask for directions. I find a little gelato shop (imagine that! In Venice!). Like the others I've asked, they have no idea where this place is. Or the street;( even the lady with the catfish lips doesn't know...seriously, her lips are amazingly ridiculous! they do make a phone call to the b&b for me, but there is no answer. I thank them and head on my way. I'm resourceful! I find a nice hotel on the canal. They have a room for me-265€! I'm resourceful, not idiotic! I move on to another hotel. He's booked, but he calls a friend. The friend has a room and is walking over to get me. Enter Julius! Well, he'd like me to call him Juli;) he's about 70 and walks like he's 20! We're chatting as we walk over canals, down alleyways, around corners and I know I will not find my way back. "It's cold!" I agree but tell him red wine always warms you up! My mistake! "you like red wine?i buy you red wine!" oh no, I'm going to drop off my backpack and then go to dinner, but thank you. Nonono you have wine now! Then dinner! We go in a random cafe and he plops down money and we have a tiny glass of red. And then his wife calls. She is Chinese, so he's speaking Italian/Chinese/English. "always everyone wants to know where I am!" On to the hotel! Darling! My room has beautiful antique furniture...bed nightstands armoire desk and a beautiful gilded mirror that reminds me of the mirror in St. Goar in the shape of the mirrors at Cafe Tirholderhof. And of course a huge bathroom to myself-the place I had booked was a shared bath. I love it when things work out for the better! Breakfast in the morning....Juli really wants me to come, 8-10, it's very good! I'm a happy girl;) now for dinner! I want to eat at a cute little cafe on the grand canal...a little wine, a little pasta, a little view/people watching. It is not to be....45 minutes later I grab a table in a random place that's still serving and have a great chianti and cannelloni with spinach! I love spinach! Getting back to the hotel will be near impossible, but I'm a happy blessed girl;) in the front window there's a table with three girls from Washington. They are cracking me up with their stories. They are given free wine and why not, they are darling! Thank God I'm offered it too...I'd hate to think that I'm that old! I refuse it politely, but then I'm brought limoncello as a gift from the bar...ok...oh no, now he's pouring a glass of wine for me and one for him. Essentially I now have a dinner date as he's seated himself at my table :-/ Good news! He's off in 30 minutes and he will take a bottle and we will go. Yeah, no! In some small way, I'm flattered and would almost be insulted if I wasn't hit on, in another way I'm thinking, ugh, enough, stop!
The women at the table next to me get ready to leave. I ask where the one woman is from, she is shocked, she hasn't said anything in English (she did when she first came in) she's from Manhattan (not the little apple) and I'm glad to get this advice...go somewhere where the people are not all from there and they are open to new friendships...Paris (where she lives) not Venice. It is really a good thought. Slowly, but surely, I will figure this out;)
The Washington girls have moved to a back table and asked me to join them. Sure why not! I did not realize that my new best friend was going to join me, too. Actually there are two other waiters with the girls. It's a regular party. The restaurant is officially closed. Carafes of red wine are brought in and fresh glasses for everyone. The girls want to play a drinking game. Jade wants to play cups, but we don't have cups. Aha! Tony has a game! Just to double check, it's one am, I'm 41 alone on holiday in Venice playing "suck" (you know the game where you pass the credit card around? Except this is a business card for the restaurant. Same thing!) with three 20 year olds and some Italian waiters. yep! Sounds about right! My new best friend is still insisting that he and are going out tonight. Ally and I are rolling our eyes at each other and in one motion we all bolt. To the Irish pub to meet up with a huge group of guys also on break from studying in Rome. One of whom they think is perfect for me. Except we can't find the Irish pub. I passed by it twelve times on my "way" to dinner. By the time we find it, the guys are gone-they thought we blew them off. We have one drink and the place is closing-well of course it is! I have no idea what time it is, but it's late, or early depending on how you look at it. I still have to find my way home! Not an easy task :-/ eventually, I find it and I am ready to crash! I don't know how many bridges I went over but I feel like I have been running stairs all night! Plus there was a little dancing at the Irish pub. My legs are done! In the morning the phone in my room rings. It's check out time, now. Ugh what time is it? 10! I am turning into a 20 year old! I've missed breakfast which I could care less about and on the television there's an opera playing (in Italian of course)??
I'm rushing around throwing things in my bag. I can't think about makeup at all, but I do brush my teeth, several times. Uh oh, it's the moment of truth. The jeans I pull out to wear are the 2s. I'm a month in, there's no way...zip! Hot damn! On my way out I find out that my friend Juli doesn't actually work for the hotel, he was just helping out last night, which is why I didn't know they had such an early check out, and why I got a deal in the room. I don't feel too badly, I barely used the room! The guy at the front desk is apologizing about Julius. You know I'm a little tiny bit fiercely loyal when it comes to my friends. I have to tell him (not about the wine, I don't think that will help anything) how wonderful Julius was and how he was so thoughtful to come and pick me up and walk me back and how lucky they are to have him. I'm not sure I've convinced him, but he seems to just be a crank. I have no time for cranky people, so I thank him for the room and the lovely stay and I'm off! Now to find my way to the vaparetto....love that word! And somehow, like typically happens to me, after I wind my way around over bridges, through tunnels, down tiny streets....I end up at San Marco square! I love it! I grab the vaparetto and head to the station to reserve my seat for Florence and dump my bag for a few hours. Now I can explore;) not only is this a walking town, it's a climbing town! Up and over bridges down little streets and up and over again! Some of these are looking familiar from last night as we ran in circles trying to find the Irish pub. I settle into a little lunch spot where they have wifi;) but its not working:( I had a coke light and gnocchi. Bridget, you're right the cans are thinner and now they have pictures on them! Mine has a cartoon of a girl laughing with a pink ponytail and heels-perfect! The meal is just okay and I leave most of it there, but the restaurant is what I remember Venice to be...very ornate with gorgeous Venetian glass chandeliers and sconces. The service-food drink whatever-comes in from somewhere magically outside. The restaurant itself is just this fabulous room.
I keep walking up and down over bridges loving watching the gondoliers. I think if one of my nieces was manning a gondola it would be more like a speed boat! I can picture their business-Three Sisters (we may have to change the name obviously!) Caitiebug will be on charge of everything, Ryry will be gondoliering (it's a word, I'm sure of it) and my Nones? Talking nonstop about all the fabulous things about Venice, and whatever else she feels like talking about!
I'd like a little gelato but it's so cold, I wish I could have it inside. Aha! A tea room;) there are several little salons inside, one more beautiful than the next. I choose what I'm positive must be the best one with a view of the square. Ahhh, home!
On the other side of the salon (it's not wide, just long) there are two Asian couples. Two men who are taking turns taking pictures of each other and a man and a woman who are doing the same. The man/woman couple ask me to take a picture of them, which I do after listening to a dissertation on how to use a standard digital camera. Now they want to take a picture of me....with thier camera...um, no.
I'm having earl gray and the tartufo that I missed in Rome. Yum! It arrives on a huge silver tray which is placed atop my beautiful marble table. The woman next to me smiles as the tray is set down. "I like being spoiled." she may not speak English but she knows what I mean, smiles and nods to her husband. They add tartufo to their order. I should be on commission.
New couple on the other side of me....I'm think of you Megan because he is talking to her about something but she is completely lost gazing at her engagement ring;) ahhh, this is the perfect way to say goodbye to Venice!
Now to Florence!
It's an easy ride from Rome to Venice. I've grabbed a seat that I think will be going the right way and shimmy off my jacket and get out my iPad. I have on the cutest little dress (so sue me, I bought something!). A man walks by and then stops and comes back to me. I really do look cute! "please may I ?" the price tag is hanging out of the back of my dress. It is not a small tag either. "May I rip it off?" I remember reminding myself to tear it off but then I was distracted by all the lotions I had to choose from in the hotel. He tears it off and hands it to me smiling. "You are a little thief!" i am cracking up! "a beautiful little thief!" i love it! Next a couple comes and says they have that seat. Oh crap! I just remembered that in Italy even with a Eurail pass you have to reserve your seat( and pay extra for it)! Kind of explains the last train trip! I move across the way and a mother and daughter come and sit facing me. She explains that they don't have these seats but wanted to sit together. Do I mind? Nope (especially since this technically isn't my seat either) They are really cute. The daughter has her iPhone out and is listening to music. She puts one ear bud in her own ear and gives the other one to her mom, so cute! We are in first class so they bring us a complimentary drink and chocolate square. The girl immediately spills hers :( its one of those little glasses that seems to have a lot in it! She's spilled it on her lap but it's trickled into the aisle and is all over her coat which she was sitting on. I am no help. I have a mini pack of Kleenex which I give her. I tell the mom I will move and they can have my seat and the one next to it (how else can they do their cute music sharing thing?) she is too distracted to understand me. The girl is so grateful. God love her, we're only about 30 minutes into a two hour trip and she's drenched! When we get ready to alight, they are both at my seat thanking me. Of course! I'm going to make her sit in a wet seat? Yuck! No!
I see vineyards! In between tunnels, but still, they are growing my wine right in front of me;) thank you!
When I arrive in Venice the TIs are closed;( but the woman selling tickets for the vaparetto says its about 40 minutes and the guy on board will know where to exit. It's a nice ride! Ever the optimist, I'm thinking that this place is far but probably has the best restaurant right by it! When I exit I'm looking for someplace that has lights on so I can ask for directions. I find a little gelato shop (imagine that! In Venice!). Like the others I've asked, they have no idea where this place is. Or the street;( even the lady with the catfish lips doesn't know...seriously, her lips are amazingly ridiculous! they do make a phone call to the b&b for me, but there is no answer. I thank them and head on my way. I'm resourceful! I find a nice hotel on the canal. They have a room for me-265€! I'm resourceful, not idiotic! I move on to another hotel. He's booked, but he calls a friend. The friend has a room and is walking over to get me. Enter Julius! Well, he'd like me to call him Juli;) he's about 70 and walks like he's 20! We're chatting as we walk over canals, down alleyways, around corners and I know I will not find my way back. "It's cold!" I agree but tell him red wine always warms you up! My mistake! "you like red wine?i buy you red wine!" oh no, I'm going to drop off my backpack and then go to dinner, but thank you. Nonono you have wine now! Then dinner! We go in a random cafe and he plops down money and we have a tiny glass of red. And then his wife calls. She is Chinese, so he's speaking Italian/Chinese/English. "always everyone wants to know where I am!" On to the hotel! Darling! My room has beautiful antique furniture...bed nightstands armoire desk and a beautiful gilded mirror that reminds me of the mirror in St. Goar in the shape of the mirrors at Cafe Tirholderhof. And of course a huge bathroom to myself-the place I had booked was a shared bath. I love it when things work out for the better! Breakfast in the morning....Juli really wants me to come, 8-10, it's very good! I'm a happy girl;) now for dinner! I want to eat at a cute little cafe on the grand canal...a little wine, a little pasta, a little view/people watching. It is not to be....45 minutes later I grab a table in a random place that's still serving and have a great chianti and cannelloni with spinach! I love spinach! Getting back to the hotel will be near impossible, but I'm a happy blessed girl;) in the front window there's a table with three girls from Washington. They are cracking me up with their stories. They are given free wine and why not, they are darling! Thank God I'm offered it too...I'd hate to think that I'm that old! I refuse it politely, but then I'm brought limoncello as a gift from the bar...ok...oh no, now he's pouring a glass of wine for me and one for him. Essentially I now have a dinner date as he's seated himself at my table :-/ Good news! He's off in 30 minutes and he will take a bottle and we will go. Yeah, no! In some small way, I'm flattered and would almost be insulted if I wasn't hit on, in another way I'm thinking, ugh, enough, stop!
The women at the table next to me get ready to leave. I ask where the one woman is from, she is shocked, she hasn't said anything in English (she did when she first came in) she's from Manhattan (not the little apple) and I'm glad to get this advice...go somewhere where the people are not all from there and they are open to new friendships...Paris (where she lives) not Venice. It is really a good thought. Slowly, but surely, I will figure this out;)
The Washington girls have moved to a back table and asked me to join them. Sure why not! I did not realize that my new best friend was going to join me, too. Actually there are two other waiters with the girls. It's a regular party. The restaurant is officially closed. Carafes of red wine are brought in and fresh glasses for everyone. The girls want to play a drinking game. Jade wants to play cups, but we don't have cups. Aha! Tony has a game! Just to double check, it's one am, I'm 41 alone on holiday in Venice playing "suck" (you know the game where you pass the credit card around? Except this is a business card for the restaurant. Same thing!) with three 20 year olds and some Italian waiters. yep! Sounds about right! My new best friend is still insisting that he and are going out tonight. Ally and I are rolling our eyes at each other and in one motion we all bolt. To the Irish pub to meet up with a huge group of guys also on break from studying in Rome. One of whom they think is perfect for me. Except we can't find the Irish pub. I passed by it twelve times on my "way" to dinner. By the time we find it, the guys are gone-they thought we blew them off. We have one drink and the place is closing-well of course it is! I have no idea what time it is, but it's late, or early depending on how you look at it. I still have to find my way home! Not an easy task :-/ eventually, I find it and I am ready to crash! I don't know how many bridges I went over but I feel like I have been running stairs all night! Plus there was a little dancing at the Irish pub. My legs are done! In the morning the phone in my room rings. It's check out time, now. Ugh what time is it? 10! I am turning into a 20 year old! I've missed breakfast which I could care less about and on the television there's an opera playing (in Italian of course)??
I'm rushing around throwing things in my bag. I can't think about makeup at all, but I do brush my teeth, several times. Uh oh, it's the moment of truth. The jeans I pull out to wear are the 2s. I'm a month in, there's no way...zip! Hot damn! On my way out I find out that my friend Juli doesn't actually work for the hotel, he was just helping out last night, which is why I didn't know they had such an early check out, and why I got a deal in the room. I don't feel too badly, I barely used the room! The guy at the front desk is apologizing about Julius. You know I'm a little tiny bit fiercely loyal when it comes to my friends. I have to tell him (not about the wine, I don't think that will help anything) how wonderful Julius was and how he was so thoughtful to come and pick me up and walk me back and how lucky they are to have him. I'm not sure I've convinced him, but he seems to just be a crank. I have no time for cranky people, so I thank him for the room and the lovely stay and I'm off! Now to find my way to the vaparetto....love that word! And somehow, like typically happens to me, after I wind my way around over bridges, through tunnels, down tiny streets....I end up at San Marco square! I love it! I grab the vaparetto and head to the station to reserve my seat for Florence and dump my bag for a few hours. Now I can explore;) not only is this a walking town, it's a climbing town! Up and over bridges down little streets and up and over again! Some of these are looking familiar from last night as we ran in circles trying to find the Irish pub. I settle into a little lunch spot where they have wifi;) but its not working:( I had a coke light and gnocchi. Bridget, you're right the cans are thinner and now they have pictures on them! Mine has a cartoon of a girl laughing with a pink ponytail and heels-perfect! The meal is just okay and I leave most of it there, but the restaurant is what I remember Venice to be...very ornate with gorgeous Venetian glass chandeliers and sconces. The service-food drink whatever-comes in from somewhere magically outside. The restaurant itself is just this fabulous room.
I keep walking up and down over bridges loving watching the gondoliers. I think if one of my nieces was manning a gondola it would be more like a speed boat! I can picture their business-Three Sisters (we may have to change the name obviously!) Caitiebug will be on charge of everything, Ryry will be gondoliering (it's a word, I'm sure of it) and my Nones? Talking nonstop about all the fabulous things about Venice, and whatever else she feels like talking about!
I'd like a little gelato but it's so cold, I wish I could have it inside. Aha! A tea room;) there are several little salons inside, one more beautiful than the next. I choose what I'm positive must be the best one with a view of the square. Ahhh, home!
On the other side of the salon (it's not wide, just long) there are two Asian couples. Two men who are taking turns taking pictures of each other and a man and a woman who are doing the same. The man/woman couple ask me to take a picture of them, which I do after listening to a dissertation on how to use a standard digital camera. Now they want to take a picture of me....with thier camera...um, no.
I'm having earl gray and the tartufo that I missed in Rome. Yum! It arrives on a huge silver tray which is placed atop my beautiful marble table. The woman next to me smiles as the tray is set down. "I like being spoiled." she may not speak English but she knows what I mean, smiles and nods to her husband. They add tartufo to their order. I should be on commission.
New couple on the other side of me....I'm think of you Megan because he is talking to her about something but she is completely lost gazing at her engagement ring;) ahhh, this is the perfect way to say goodbye to Venice!
Now to Florence!
Sunday, February 5, 2012
Roma!
Roma!
It's 7:45am and I'm so grateful to be here! Tough ride here, but now I'm off to a beautiful hotel in an amazing city! I'm using my points for a two day stay because I think Bank of America is finally going to come through and send my card here! (I'm a dreamer!) they have a room for me but it's not ready. I would hardly expect it to be, it's so early. He has one now, but the room they originally reserved has a big balcony. Do I want to wait? Yes! I drop my bag as he outlines a nice hour long walk for me. I can't wait to see how long it takes me;) (about 2:45) I love Rome! Obviously this is where I should live....shopping, piazzas, wine, pasta....what's not to love! And there are nearly 500 churches! It's perfect! I decide that in addition to the American Embassy (which is right across the street from my hotel-convenient should I need it!) my other landmark will be Vinny Barbarino. That's totally not the name of the piazza (Barberini! Its close!) but it's easier to remember (looking back on this, it's odd that Epstein just died and I'm in Piazza Barbarino ) . Now to Triton Fountain and ooh! Street shopping! It's like little Italy, in Italy! And a couple of beautiful churches (498 to go!) I decided to "light" my candles near Mary-there weren't any lit there! Now I know why, this electronic candle lighting thing can be more difficult than it needs to be. But I find good spots for my boys;). Ok, totally moving here, right here, in this room with this balcony and this shower! First of all, my room has shades of pink-shades, but also shades! The lamps have two shades, the larger outer white one and inside is a pale pink one. What a great idea! It casts a nice soft light. My big marble bathroom echoes! Mary and Linda, you'll be happy to know that there's a bidet. I've never used a bidet. Don't know if I will now. Definitely won't be blogging about it! But the shower is amazing! I can't wait to jump in! Have soooo many choices of gels and shampoos and lotions! I can only imagine how yummy I'll smell! I'm going to be in here for an hour! In addition to having the wand thing that was so funny in Zurich, there's a huge waterfall overhead. So ironic, in Zurich I was thinking they should have a shower head and the wand-let's be honest, I was not great with the wand. The bathroom was a little damp, well wet! Anyway, now I have it all! Spoiled, happy girl. After the shower, in my robe and slippers (really more like thongs, soft cushy thongs!) I decide to order a little glass of prosecco....wouldn't you? It comes with little snacks...ooh! Good idea! I haven't eaten since that taste of prosciutto yesterday! Actually my favorite ones are like little cheesy shortbreads in little circle shapes...they remind me of the girls' puffs snacks;) yikes a bird! I am willing to share lots of things, but I'm not great at sharing with birds. I saw The Birds with Kim at the Gramlichs a hundred years ago....eeew! This one is just happily hanging out on my balcony. It makes me think of traveling to Hawaii for work...I always had birds on my balcony or in my room because I always had a room up high and I never closed the balcony door-would you if you were from Kansas? I loved hearing the waves. Once I came home to a pair of love birds in my room! They were not happy! Neither was I.
Did I mention there's a spa here? I'm sure it's amazing! Instead I give myself a little mani/pedi on the balcony while drinking my prosecco. It's a springy color, but I don't care, it's a happy color, perfect! Yep, definitely moving to Rome;) I put on a cute dress and I'm ready to head out! My favorite piazza (from forever ago-the only other time I've ever been in Rome) is Piazza Navona. And there's a yummy spot there called Tre Scalini. Julie and I liked it so much we went back one night just to convince them to give us tartufo to go;) I sent Scott here years ago, too. I can't wait! I'm so organized that I google map it and write down directions. It will take 38 minutes to get there by foot! Perfect! The directions are in meters...173 meters then go right, etc...I am so organized that I look that up too! One meter is about three feet so every three steps I take is a meter...well, maybe a little more steps/meter for me. I think about my St. Christopher medal from Sean and Wiese..patron saint of travelers, not lost travelers...oh well;) I love it and show it to everyone! I ask for directions at a Best Western (btw, that would be a great hotel to earn points! They are everywhere and usually in good locations!) at the hotel I see the Blandos (I know its almost been a year, but I still love saying it!) the only odd thing is that you have forgotten to take the stitch out of the flap on the back of your very cute coat, Katie and Phil is speaking Italian? Anyway, I'm not close. But here's the thing, by the time I get to dinner I've been through a cool tunnel (twice) to the Trevi Fountain, pantheon, Horses (a couple times, but they end up being a landmark)! I mean, honestly, what did you pass in the way to dinner tonight? Not a bad night! Unfortunately, Tre Scalini is closed when I get there:( its only 8:35! Oh well, there are two other places still open. I pick one. Navona Ristorante...like Nona! It's weird, the piazza seems smaller, but Rome seems bigger. I think we stayed closer to it last time I was here? Usually it's filled with bands and artists, but not on this cold January night. I'm snuggled in by a heat lamp with a glass of red wine and pasta on the way. What a rough life! There is one artist showing his wares and the maitre d is talking with him. The maitre d reminds me of George from Tasso's! Except that he's bugging everyone who walks by to come eat. To be fair, he's very nice when someone asks for directions to another place (and gives them...I try not to ask directions of a restaurant when I'm looking for a restaurant hotel/hotel...I just feel too guilty) and he's not doing too badly getting people to come in. He's about 1 for 5-it's a numbers game, like everything else. It makes me think what it would be like when this is your livelihood. You'd have to work really hard to get as many people in the seats as possible. Eventually I'm helping George. I should be on commission. Just to make my evening complete, a man start playing guitar and singing. I'm loving his renditions! He starts off with a version of "Your Song" now "sorry seems to be the honest word"? instead of what do i have to do...why can't you? Hey love! Or Layla as we've known it in the past. Think how good he must be. He either doesn't have the sheet music, or can't read English, or both but he's rocking it out! George is singing too! Happy group! As I get ready to leave another large Asian tour group comes through the square with one of those long poles with a doll hanging from it to keep them together. I could be the american version just walk and talk all day! But I don't want the pole. I'm headed back to the hotel thinking I should get some gelato. Also thinking I should keep walking this off. I end up taking a cab and no gelato;( good decision because when I get home there's a truffle by my bed....yum!
For my last day in Rome, I decide to walk the tour suggested in the book. Turns out, once again, I've seen most of it through my wandering. I continue to wander because I'm not going to get in at church:( the line has not moved at all, same as yesterday. I pick out another nativity for you, Bridget and decide to say prayers in the square! I love to shop and just look up! It's so beautiful here. Now, I'm in a cafe in piazza del popolo. My view is amazing! Of the buildings and people....well...Men should not wear low waist jeans....I don't mean the ones slung so low they're falling off-they shouldn't wear those either...I mean like we wear. It's yucky seeing someone's thong, it's yuckier seeing a guy's nasty black underwear peeking out :(
There's a beautiful band playing in the piazza. Kind of random happy Italian music-exactly what you'd want to hear in the square....meantime, there's a little girl two tables over playing a little wooden flute, not well, but hilarious all the same;) when the band ends a song, she stops. They start and she does too!
Cutest little bus flies by. Its like a mini tour bus. Its for shopping! Hello! Here I am! (as it turns out, this bus is totally following me-it wants me to shop!)
Remember the woman in the fountain in Under the Tuscan Sun? She's here! Not in a fountain, just chatting on her phone. I think it's a sign, of what I don't know. I'm always wondering if things are signs. I used to pray for big flashing neon signs to knock me over because I was sure I was missing whatever signs God was sending, but now I just try to pay more attention. I'll figure it out eventually;) I think!
Now that's a garage door! It looks like one of the nice large front doors that are throughout Italy, but this one pulls open and a car drives through! Very cute!
Dogs are everywhere! I love it! One dog comes running right up to me and then sits. He has on a Swiss collar-he obviously smells Monte on me;)
A fire truck comes swerving by, lights flashing. Of course it makes me think of my good fortune in meeting Tommy, but also about the fact that they seem to be driving rather leisurely here and no one gets out of their way. Don't you always send up a prayer for whomever is on the receiving end of an ambulance? I think we need to send it with more gusto in Italy!
This is the best people watching ever! Plaid socks on an 80 year old, furs on every woman, faux or real and everyone has a map!
What a wonderful world;) true, and it's playing in the piazza!
I love watching how the women fit their hair in these helmets. It somehow works, but by some odd miracle!
I've finished my pasta and red wine and the band is on break-that's is a sign! Time to start walking! I only have an hour and a half until I jump on a train to Venice!
Of course i must fold my napkin back into shape. Fortunately its linen, unfortunately, since I sat down they have new fold going! Its a fanned out kind of thing....here goes....ahhh success! One more thing I might be good at;)
As is typical in my last hours in a town, I immediately find my way back to Barbarino. I think I haven't taken a picture of the actual square/fountain so as I pause to do it, I see a man fishing coins out of the fountain...he has a specific device he uses to do it. I may be naive but I had no idea there was such a device! He seems fairly successful and I'm torn...once the coin hits the fountain, your wish is made (not necessarily granted, but made) but the fountains need constant care....I'm just going to hope for the best for both.
Oh, I am sad to leave Rome! So much history, so much fun!
It's 7:45am and I'm so grateful to be here! Tough ride here, but now I'm off to a beautiful hotel in an amazing city! I'm using my points for a two day stay because I think Bank of America is finally going to come through and send my card here! (I'm a dreamer!) they have a room for me but it's not ready. I would hardly expect it to be, it's so early. He has one now, but the room they originally reserved has a big balcony. Do I want to wait? Yes! I drop my bag as he outlines a nice hour long walk for me. I can't wait to see how long it takes me;) (about 2:45) I love Rome! Obviously this is where I should live....shopping, piazzas, wine, pasta....what's not to love! And there are nearly 500 churches! It's perfect! I decide that in addition to the American Embassy (which is right across the street from my hotel-convenient should I need it!) my other landmark will be Vinny Barbarino. That's totally not the name of the piazza (Barberini! Its close!) but it's easier to remember (looking back on this, it's odd that Epstein just died and I'm in Piazza Barbarino ) . Now to Triton Fountain and ooh! Street shopping! It's like little Italy, in Italy! And a couple of beautiful churches (498 to go!) I decided to "light" my candles near Mary-there weren't any lit there! Now I know why, this electronic candle lighting thing can be more difficult than it needs to be. But I find good spots for my boys;). Ok, totally moving here, right here, in this room with this balcony and this shower! First of all, my room has shades of pink-shades, but also shades! The lamps have two shades, the larger outer white one and inside is a pale pink one. What a great idea! It casts a nice soft light. My big marble bathroom echoes! Mary and Linda, you'll be happy to know that there's a bidet. I've never used a bidet. Don't know if I will now. Definitely won't be blogging about it! But the shower is amazing! I can't wait to jump in! Have soooo many choices of gels and shampoos and lotions! I can only imagine how yummy I'll smell! I'm going to be in here for an hour! In addition to having the wand thing that was so funny in Zurich, there's a huge waterfall overhead. So ironic, in Zurich I was thinking they should have a shower head and the wand-let's be honest, I was not great with the wand. The bathroom was a little damp, well wet! Anyway, now I have it all! Spoiled, happy girl. After the shower, in my robe and slippers (really more like thongs, soft cushy thongs!) I decide to order a little glass of prosecco....wouldn't you? It comes with little snacks...ooh! Good idea! I haven't eaten since that taste of prosciutto yesterday! Actually my favorite ones are like little cheesy shortbreads in little circle shapes...they remind me of the girls' puffs snacks;) yikes a bird! I am willing to share lots of things, but I'm not great at sharing with birds. I saw The Birds with Kim at the Gramlichs a hundred years ago....eeew! This one is just happily hanging out on my balcony. It makes me think of traveling to Hawaii for work...I always had birds on my balcony or in my room because I always had a room up high and I never closed the balcony door-would you if you were from Kansas? I loved hearing the waves. Once I came home to a pair of love birds in my room! They were not happy! Neither was I.
Did I mention there's a spa here? I'm sure it's amazing! Instead I give myself a little mani/pedi on the balcony while drinking my prosecco. It's a springy color, but I don't care, it's a happy color, perfect! Yep, definitely moving to Rome;) I put on a cute dress and I'm ready to head out! My favorite piazza (from forever ago-the only other time I've ever been in Rome) is Piazza Navona. And there's a yummy spot there called Tre Scalini. Julie and I liked it so much we went back one night just to convince them to give us tartufo to go;) I sent Scott here years ago, too. I can't wait! I'm so organized that I google map it and write down directions. It will take 38 minutes to get there by foot! Perfect! The directions are in meters...173 meters then go right, etc...I am so organized that I look that up too! One meter is about three feet so every three steps I take is a meter...well, maybe a little more steps/meter for me. I think about my St. Christopher medal from Sean and Wiese..patron saint of travelers, not lost travelers...oh well;) I love it and show it to everyone! I ask for directions at a Best Western (btw, that would be a great hotel to earn points! They are everywhere and usually in good locations!) at the hotel I see the Blandos (I know its almost been a year, but I still love saying it!) the only odd thing is that you have forgotten to take the stitch out of the flap on the back of your very cute coat, Katie and Phil is speaking Italian? Anyway, I'm not close. But here's the thing, by the time I get to dinner I've been through a cool tunnel (twice) to the Trevi Fountain, pantheon, Horses (a couple times, but they end up being a landmark)! I mean, honestly, what did you pass in the way to dinner tonight? Not a bad night! Unfortunately, Tre Scalini is closed when I get there:( its only 8:35! Oh well, there are two other places still open. I pick one. Navona Ristorante...like Nona! It's weird, the piazza seems smaller, but Rome seems bigger. I think we stayed closer to it last time I was here? Usually it's filled with bands and artists, but not on this cold January night. I'm snuggled in by a heat lamp with a glass of red wine and pasta on the way. What a rough life! There is one artist showing his wares and the maitre d is talking with him. The maitre d reminds me of George from Tasso's! Except that he's bugging everyone who walks by to come eat. To be fair, he's very nice when someone asks for directions to another place (and gives them...I try not to ask directions of a restaurant when I'm looking for a restaurant hotel/hotel...I just feel too guilty) and he's not doing too badly getting people to come in. He's about 1 for 5-it's a numbers game, like everything else. It makes me think what it would be like when this is your livelihood. You'd have to work really hard to get as many people in the seats as possible. Eventually I'm helping George. I should be on commission. Just to make my evening complete, a man start playing guitar and singing. I'm loving his renditions! He starts off with a version of "Your Song" now "sorry seems to be the honest word"? instead of what do i have to do...why can't you? Hey love! Or Layla as we've known it in the past. Think how good he must be. He either doesn't have the sheet music, or can't read English, or both but he's rocking it out! George is singing too! Happy group! As I get ready to leave another large Asian tour group comes through the square with one of those long poles with a doll hanging from it to keep them together. I could be the american version just walk and talk all day! But I don't want the pole. I'm headed back to the hotel thinking I should get some gelato. Also thinking I should keep walking this off. I end up taking a cab and no gelato;( good decision because when I get home there's a truffle by my bed....yum!
For my last day in Rome, I decide to walk the tour suggested in the book. Turns out, once again, I've seen most of it through my wandering. I continue to wander because I'm not going to get in at church:( the line has not moved at all, same as yesterday. I pick out another nativity for you, Bridget and decide to say prayers in the square! I love to shop and just look up! It's so beautiful here. Now, I'm in a cafe in piazza del popolo. My view is amazing! Of the buildings and people....well...Men should not wear low waist jeans....I don't mean the ones slung so low they're falling off-they shouldn't wear those either...I mean like we wear. It's yucky seeing someone's thong, it's yuckier seeing a guy's nasty black underwear peeking out :(
There's a beautiful band playing in the piazza. Kind of random happy Italian music-exactly what you'd want to hear in the square....meantime, there's a little girl two tables over playing a little wooden flute, not well, but hilarious all the same;) when the band ends a song, she stops. They start and she does too!
Cutest little bus flies by. Its like a mini tour bus. Its for shopping! Hello! Here I am! (as it turns out, this bus is totally following me-it wants me to shop!)
Remember the woman in the fountain in Under the Tuscan Sun? She's here! Not in a fountain, just chatting on her phone. I think it's a sign, of what I don't know. I'm always wondering if things are signs. I used to pray for big flashing neon signs to knock me over because I was sure I was missing whatever signs God was sending, but now I just try to pay more attention. I'll figure it out eventually;) I think!
Now that's a garage door! It looks like one of the nice large front doors that are throughout Italy, but this one pulls open and a car drives through! Very cute!
Dogs are everywhere! I love it! One dog comes running right up to me and then sits. He has on a Swiss collar-he obviously smells Monte on me;)
A fire truck comes swerving by, lights flashing. Of course it makes me think of my good fortune in meeting Tommy, but also about the fact that they seem to be driving rather leisurely here and no one gets out of their way. Don't you always send up a prayer for whomever is on the receiving end of an ambulance? I think we need to send it with more gusto in Italy!
This is the best people watching ever! Plaid socks on an 80 year old, furs on every woman, faux or real and everyone has a map!
What a wonderful world;) true, and it's playing in the piazza!
I love watching how the women fit their hair in these helmets. It somehow works, but by some odd miracle!
I've finished my pasta and red wine and the band is on break-that's is a sign! Time to start walking! I only have an hour and a half until I jump on a train to Venice!
Of course i must fold my napkin back into shape. Fortunately its linen, unfortunately, since I sat down they have new fold going! Its a fanned out kind of thing....here goes....ahhh success! One more thing I might be good at;)
As is typical in my last hours in a town, I immediately find my way back to Barbarino. I think I haven't taken a picture of the actual square/fountain so as I pause to do it, I see a man fishing coins out of the fountain...he has a specific device he uses to do it. I may be naive but I had no idea there was such a device! He seems fairly successful and I'm torn...once the coin hits the fountain, your wish is made (not necessarily granted, but made) but the fountains need constant care....I'm just going to hope for the best for both.
Oh, I am sad to leave Rome! So much history, so much fun!
Saturday, February 4, 2012
Interlaken to Roma!
Interlaken to Rome!
There are a few trains on my route from Interlaken to Rome. I'm sad to leave summer/winter camp, but excited for Italy, so I'm not worried about the 12 hour travel time.
I see stirrup pants! Unfortunately, (as if there could be a fortunately where stirrup pants are concerned?)they are on an older woman who just keeps pacing up and down the aisle. She always stops at my seats and then back....sometimes six rows sometimes ten. It's a two hour trip. Her face doesn't look happy. I have to know if she's okay. I ask her but she tells me (in Italian) that she only speaks Italian. Now I'm thinking of signals. I finally come up with something that works because I get a huge grin and she's nodding her head. Oh, thank God! My heart was starting to hurt. I'm thinking something has gone very wrong in her life, she's a nervous traveler, she's sick...whatever it is she's smiling as she paces now and eventually sits down.
Right before the train pulls away, four customs agents come marching down the aisle. They are very serious looking and very intimidating. They pass by me. Quickly I grab my passport and Eurail pass-I'm ready. What a little nerd I am! The next time they come through they're looking at people but not doing anything?? One just smiles at me. Okay, but I'm ready! During our first stop in Italy (!) three police officers come on and walk through? Odd. I haven't seen this much action on all my other trains combined. When I get to the train from Milan (12:05-7:26) I'm actually kind of relieved, because this one arrives in Rome! It's my last train;) I am nothing if not optimistic. A Pakistani guy and I have a car of six seats to ourselves. We each take a side. He is heading to Rome because of an issue with his passport. He's working as a beautician while going to university for computers. He seems perfectly nice. About two hours in on one of our stops some policemen come on and enter the car next door. There is a lot of yelling, mostly a police officer yelling in various languages to please exit the train. Whoever they are telling this to is not interested in exiting the train. Things get louder and I can hear things/people hitting the sides of the compartment. Pretty soon a guy is dragged down the hall face down and literally thrown from the train! He is still yelling so the cops have a go with him. My cabin mate is cracking up. I am not finding this funny. He speaks Farsi Italian and English so he tells me the guy did not have a ticket. Really kind of scary. The Pakistani doesn't agree. Really? Because all of his friends are still next door and we have about five hours left to go. He goes to the restroom, in the meantime two of the guys from the cabin next door start to throw something out the window in the hallway. They see e and go back in the cabin. How did I get placed with these guys? Very scary! Random guys just walk by with their hoodies pulled over their face. Thecpakistani keeps puffing himself up. I should say he is tall but very skinny and has rhinestones on his jeans...not totally intimidating. But I'm glad to have a guy in the cabin anyway. And I'm really glad when we finally pull in the station in Rome. In addition to the scary looking/acting guys, the heat doesn't work and it is freezing! Colder than I ever was in Interlaken. Ugh! About 15 minutes from the statinon one of the ticket taker people comes by and asks if the heat is broken and offers for me to move cabins...seriously? With everything else that's gone on in the last 7 hours or so, moving cabins for 15 minutes for heat seems like the craziest part of it all. I ask him about the guy who was ejected, but he shrugs his shoulders as if he has no idea what I'm talking about. Hmmmm....he was one of the guys in the cabin getting him out! I honestly wonder what condition the man is in. My cabin mate says "he is black, he is a very bad man" racist much? This whole trip has been very odd. The while time I keep thinking about the nice hotel I will be staying in and how much I can't wait to shower! As we pull into the station I take a swig of my water. I actually bought regular old flat water! Haven't done that since Ireland;) ( it all comes back to Ireland) I have bought water, but mistakenly sparkling. I'm mostly a no bubbles girl! Water or wine, actually. I haven't been drinking it on this trip because I didn't want to leave my cabin to use the WC. :( just too eerie on this train. I have one more 12 minute train to the main station...the light at the end of the tunnel? I am so excited to see it! I did not like the ejection/beating thing. I've heard of it happening, but never witnessed it and I don't want to again.
There are a few trains on my route from Interlaken to Rome. I'm sad to leave summer/winter camp, but excited for Italy, so I'm not worried about the 12 hour travel time.
I see stirrup pants! Unfortunately, (as if there could be a fortunately where stirrup pants are concerned?)they are on an older woman who just keeps pacing up and down the aisle. She always stops at my seats and then back....sometimes six rows sometimes ten. It's a two hour trip. Her face doesn't look happy. I have to know if she's okay. I ask her but she tells me (in Italian) that she only speaks Italian. Now I'm thinking of signals. I finally come up with something that works because I get a huge grin and she's nodding her head. Oh, thank God! My heart was starting to hurt. I'm thinking something has gone very wrong in her life, she's a nervous traveler, she's sick...whatever it is she's smiling as she paces now and eventually sits down.
Right before the train pulls away, four customs agents come marching down the aisle. They are very serious looking and very intimidating. They pass by me. Quickly I grab my passport and Eurail pass-I'm ready. What a little nerd I am! The next time they come through they're looking at people but not doing anything?? One just smiles at me. Okay, but I'm ready! During our first stop in Italy (!) three police officers come on and walk through? Odd. I haven't seen this much action on all my other trains combined. When I get to the train from Milan (12:05-7:26) I'm actually kind of relieved, because this one arrives in Rome! It's my last train;) I am nothing if not optimistic. A Pakistani guy and I have a car of six seats to ourselves. We each take a side. He is heading to Rome because of an issue with his passport. He's working as a beautician while going to university for computers. He seems perfectly nice. About two hours in on one of our stops some policemen come on and enter the car next door. There is a lot of yelling, mostly a police officer yelling in various languages to please exit the train. Whoever they are telling this to is not interested in exiting the train. Things get louder and I can hear things/people hitting the sides of the compartment. Pretty soon a guy is dragged down the hall face down and literally thrown from the train! He is still yelling so the cops have a go with him. My cabin mate is cracking up. I am not finding this funny. He speaks Farsi Italian and English so he tells me the guy did not have a ticket. Really kind of scary. The Pakistani doesn't agree. Really? Because all of his friends are still next door and we have about five hours left to go. He goes to the restroom, in the meantime two of the guys from the cabin next door start to throw something out the window in the hallway. They see e and go back in the cabin. How did I get placed with these guys? Very scary! Random guys just walk by with their hoodies pulled over their face. Thecpakistani keeps puffing himself up. I should say he is tall but very skinny and has rhinestones on his jeans...not totally intimidating. But I'm glad to have a guy in the cabin anyway. And I'm really glad when we finally pull in the station in Rome. In addition to the scary looking/acting guys, the heat doesn't work and it is freezing! Colder than I ever was in Interlaken. Ugh! About 15 minutes from the statinon one of the ticket taker people comes by and asks if the heat is broken and offers for me to move cabins...seriously? With everything else that's gone on in the last 7 hours or so, moving cabins for 15 minutes for heat seems like the craziest part of it all. I ask him about the guy who was ejected, but he shrugs his shoulders as if he has no idea what I'm talking about. Hmmmm....he was one of the guys in the cabin getting him out! I honestly wonder what condition the man is in. My cabin mate says "he is black, he is a very bad man" racist much? This whole trip has been very odd. The while time I keep thinking about the nice hotel I will be staying in and how much I can't wait to shower! As we pull into the station I take a swig of my water. I actually bought regular old flat water! Haven't done that since Ireland;) ( it all comes back to Ireland) I have bought water, but mistakenly sparkling. I'm mostly a no bubbles girl! Water or wine, actually. I haven't been drinking it on this trip because I didn't want to leave my cabin to use the WC. :( just too eerie on this train. I have one more 12 minute train to the main station...the light at the end of the tunnel? I am so excited to see it! I did not like the ejection/beating thing. I've heard of it happening, but never witnessed it and I don't want to again.
Wednesday, February 1, 2012
Off to Summer camp! Winter camp! Interlaken:)
There are three large cements stumps inside the train station. A man is sitting in one, a woman on the other and the third is for me! They look so comfy perched up there! I stop myself just short! I have on my backpack and totally would have fallen backward! But i know better than to sit on my backpack on the floor;) at least I've learned that much!
On my way to Interlaken. I'm trying to enjoy the views (except we just went in a tunnel) but thanks to SB every time I get on a train, The Gambler starts playing in my mind!
The views are amazing! Rolling hills, tall pine trees, little chalets sprinkled in the valleys and every shade of green imaginable! Not Ireland green, but very pretty all the same! Waaaaay off on the distance there's a little s.n.o.w. on the mountains. I love that it's here, it is Switzerland after all, but I'm glad it's so far away, too!
Next train! A woman walks in thinking she is very funny by swaying back and forth like she's going to fall over as she walks all the way through the car and then back. The business men are not amused. I sometimes forget its a workday....I'm upstairs in first class and I am the only woman. There's a man who may be retired, he's sleeping, but the rest of the men are very busy working. I am at the curved couch enjoying the view and a little sandwich;) I didn't buy it for. The guy with the cart onboard,but seeing him reminds me that I could do that job! I wouldn't be very fast because I'd have to meet everyone and talk, but what a fun job!
More white covered mountains not shaved like I think of the ski mountains around America. There just naturally carpeted with trees carpeted with snow. So pretty!
Next train, we pull out of the station alongside another train. Move! I can't see!
We pass a school, but we're going too fast for me to see the children. It reminds me of my morning walks in Puerto Vallarta. I always walk past the school to hear those voices;) sooooo cute!
We pass a little river off the lake with stones that reminds me of Colorado. Every river with visible stones like that reminds me of Colorado. Russy took us all there in the summer and in my mind we ran the resort, Idewild. I had pen pals (remember those? When you'd actually use pen and paper, or in my case six hundred smelly markers and lots of stickers) for years from Idewild! We would go horseback riding, hiking and panning for gold! Now that I'm older, I've heard stories about the adults....they had A LOT of fun, too;)
Kevin choking, seriously choking! The rodeo event was to eat saltines and whistle. I've never seen people move so fast as they did to get to him! Then me in the Dirty Backs Club...my horse stepped on its rein, reared u and off I slid! To be fair, they came running pretty quickly for me, too! I have a certificate to prove my membership. Outer motto? If you have never been thrower then you have never rode! (funny how that applies to so many things!)
Did Russy have any idea the memories he was creating for us?
I don't think of myself as a mountain person, but I'm getting really excited as this train climbs higher! Even though I'm closer to the white stuff;) it's just gorgeous! I'm going to freeze my butt off but it's going to be so fun! I think about hiking in Vail with Katie one Labor Day weekend and of course Tahoe. Ok, I'm a mountain girl! Especially in the summer! Ironically, Foreigner is singing "Cold as Ice" in my ear right now. I feel like I'm going to camp! Not the kind with a tent, Girl Scout Camp or Kanakuk/Kanakomo, where I rarely "had to" sleep in my tiny cot by myself....Bridget;) how fun if I got to my b&b and you were there! We definitely have to bring the girls here!
Out the windiw there sre lots of little goats with long legs one is just running, so happy!
Directions to my b&b are perfect! Even I can't get lost and I don't;) Ursula who owns and runs the place is fabulous. She's checking in a husband, wife and young daughter and giving them advice. I'm excited for it to be my turn;) when it is, she is so proud to tell me about Interlaken, where to eat (and where not to!) which mountains to go on, what to do if it's to cloudy...I tell her even if it's cloudy it's worth going up, there are no mountains in Kansas City. I also share the fact that last time I was in Interlaken, "I fell off the mountain" well that's what Julie said. Actually I think I just fell and slid 30 feet. Now she's giggling and as she points out her favorite mountain spots, she says, maybe you can recreate your fall.
She's outlined a walk for me that only takes about an hour (so I figure two) and will orient me to the town. I drop my bag in the room and prepare to do laundry. I am SO excited! I remember when I used to love to do laundry...it was like getting new clothes every time! Somewhere in the last couple of years it stopped being so and became more of a chore....I am ready for that chore today! I have virtually no clean clothes;( did I mention that when the Marriott in London took my laundry, they first claimed they had done it and hung it in my room, then claimed they lost it, then found it, but it wasn't done? Exhausting! In the following days/towns I have been lured by the claims of laundry service, or just coin operated machines...I'm not afraid! But each time, no:( so I am ready. I head down to where Ursula showed me the machines were, she was even so sweet as to say that she'll change out the clothes-seriously? I can't have her doing my laundry! When I get to the laundry room, there's a woman who says she's finished with the machines. "Oh! I don't want to rush you." "Oh, please! I'm Ursula's mom!" The scoop is she comes and cleans and helps out. (mom, we could so do this except I don't think either of
us wants to clean!) Anyway, she is darling and says yes! Ursula will change out the clothes...but I have a dress and scarf that can't go in the dryer. Don't worry! It's her job...no not her job, but she will...oh please! I'm the mom!
There's a sign by the washer/dryer that reads "Please don't feed our dog, Monte" but he is so cute! When I was waiting to check in, he let himself in the front door;) now he's just trotting around (total prancing pony, Dad!) I love hearing his little paws hit the hard wood! Sheryl (Ursula's mom) says he's a beggar and he will let himself in to the unlocked (unused) rooms and eat the chocolate off the pillow. She knows because the evidence appears on their walks. I am falling in love with Monte!
I decide I'll take a long walk but not so long that I am tying up the machines. This town is so darling! Jackie mentioned that she went to summer camp here-Bridget! Kristin! my girls need to come here! I know it's a long flight, but I'll hold their hands the whole way;) then I'll just stay in case one of them gets homesick! Along the walk I see a pretty green house-it's exactly how you'd want a Swiss chalet to look. It's called Lidia. It makes me think of a little girl that Guinness and I used to walk by. Her house was on our route. One day she had all of these beautiful chalk drawings all over the sidewalk and driveway-obviously I can't walk over these masterpieces, but she does. She comes out to tell Guinness and I her name (Lydia!), show us all her drawings and let us know that she'd like a little brother! I hope she got him! Little biters are fun:)
I also pass a little fenced in area that has a shack in it?? When I get closer, I see that there are two goats inside! Julie and Marta. There are hilarious and come rushing over to say hello. Jules, I may have fallen off a mountain here, but you've turned into a goat! But a very cute one;) I walk a little further and see a sign pointing to "Sunny Days" ....here I go! Sunny days, sweeping the clouds away...! (Actually a great sing to sing while walking through this town-it's so happy it makes you skip!) Reminds me of watching Big Bird (a couple times;)) on the trip from KC to Chicago! As I'm singing (inside my head) and smiling (like the village idiot) a lab comes my way. It breaks my heart to think Guinness is gone and has been gone so long;( But just then, I see a little house that reminds me of you Millie. The owner has hung freshly cut branches of pine tree outside the windows and decorated them for Christmas! It's so pretty-totally reminds me of something you'd do!
A couple houses down there's a cow in the front yard. A fiberglass cow, painted red with the white Swiss cross all over it. It's just like being in Kansas City!
There's a huge open park where people are playing. Overhead a helicopter flies by...I wonder if Ryry dislikes helicopters as much now that her ears are better? These are the complex thoughts in my head. That and clean laundry! I am soooo excited!
Home to clean laundry! Hooray! Not only is it clean, but warm! And the two things that couldn't be dried? Ursula had them over a radiator-perfect! I take everything upstairs to my room, lay it out and just smell it! Seriously, how blessed am I?!
I get dressed in my clean warm clothes and head out for dinner. It is raining hard, so I guess I won't sit outside....like I would...I think it's 1degree. It's raining, with purpose! Ow! I go to Baren's or fondue. As I'm seated I can't believe I'm hearing Radio Gaga! It's following me! The other waitress is talking to herself while resetting a table and nearly lit the placemat on fire. I don't think she has any idea....just moving about her day/night.
Remember the movie The Whole nine/ten yards...Gogoli or some such? This guy has that exact voice! It's cracking me up! Sean, what is his name?!
This is drastically different from last night. I wanted a comparison and I got it. The bread isn't as fresh or tasty...and neither is the cheese. Where I had fantastic service last night, tonight is dismal;( but it was a good glass of wine and as days go, this was a pretty good one! Can't wait to explore on a mountain top tomorrow. Ursula said to come down in the morning, we'll assess the fog and she'll give me suggestions. love it! I want to take Monte with me;)
On my way to Interlaken. I'm trying to enjoy the views (except we just went in a tunnel) but thanks to SB every time I get on a train, The Gambler starts playing in my mind!
The views are amazing! Rolling hills, tall pine trees, little chalets sprinkled in the valleys and every shade of green imaginable! Not Ireland green, but very pretty all the same! Waaaaay off on the distance there's a little s.n.o.w. on the mountains. I love that it's here, it is Switzerland after all, but I'm glad it's so far away, too!
Next train! A woman walks in thinking she is very funny by swaying back and forth like she's going to fall over as she walks all the way through the car and then back. The business men are not amused. I sometimes forget its a workday....I'm upstairs in first class and I am the only woman. There's a man who may be retired, he's sleeping, but the rest of the men are very busy working. I am at the curved couch enjoying the view and a little sandwich;) I didn't buy it for. The guy with the cart onboard,but seeing him reminds me that I could do that job! I wouldn't be very fast because I'd have to meet everyone and talk, but what a fun job!
More white covered mountains not shaved like I think of the ski mountains around America. There just naturally carpeted with trees carpeted with snow. So pretty!
Next train, we pull out of the station alongside another train. Move! I can't see!
We pass a school, but we're going too fast for me to see the children. It reminds me of my morning walks in Puerto Vallarta. I always walk past the school to hear those voices;) sooooo cute!
We pass a little river off the lake with stones that reminds me of Colorado. Every river with visible stones like that reminds me of Colorado. Russy took us all there in the summer and in my mind we ran the resort, Idewild. I had pen pals (remember those? When you'd actually use pen and paper, or in my case six hundred smelly markers and lots of stickers) for years from Idewild! We would go horseback riding, hiking and panning for gold! Now that I'm older, I've heard stories about the adults....they had A LOT of fun, too;)
Kevin choking, seriously choking! The rodeo event was to eat saltines and whistle. I've never seen people move so fast as they did to get to him! Then me in the Dirty Backs Club...my horse stepped on its rein, reared u and off I slid! To be fair, they came running pretty quickly for me, too! I have a certificate to prove my membership. Outer motto? If you have never been thrower then you have never rode! (funny how that applies to so many things!)
Did Russy have any idea the memories he was creating for us?
I don't think of myself as a mountain person, but I'm getting really excited as this train climbs higher! Even though I'm closer to the white stuff;) it's just gorgeous! I'm going to freeze my butt off but it's going to be so fun! I think about hiking in Vail with Katie one Labor Day weekend and of course Tahoe. Ok, I'm a mountain girl! Especially in the summer! Ironically, Foreigner is singing "Cold as Ice" in my ear right now. I feel like I'm going to camp! Not the kind with a tent, Girl Scout Camp or Kanakuk/Kanakomo, where I rarely "had to" sleep in my tiny cot by myself....Bridget;) how fun if I got to my b&b and you were there! We definitely have to bring the girls here!
Out the windiw there sre lots of little goats with long legs one is just running, so happy!
Directions to my b&b are perfect! Even I can't get lost and I don't;) Ursula who owns and runs the place is fabulous. She's checking in a husband, wife and young daughter and giving them advice. I'm excited for it to be my turn;) when it is, she is so proud to tell me about Interlaken, where to eat (and where not to!) which mountains to go on, what to do if it's to cloudy...I tell her even if it's cloudy it's worth going up, there are no mountains in Kansas City. I also share the fact that last time I was in Interlaken, "I fell off the mountain" well that's what Julie said. Actually I think I just fell and slid 30 feet. Now she's giggling and as she points out her favorite mountain spots, she says, maybe you can recreate your fall.
She's outlined a walk for me that only takes about an hour (so I figure two) and will orient me to the town. I drop my bag in the room and prepare to do laundry. I am SO excited! I remember when I used to love to do laundry...it was like getting new clothes every time! Somewhere in the last couple of years it stopped being so and became more of a chore....I am ready for that chore today! I have virtually no clean clothes;( did I mention that when the Marriott in London took my laundry, they first claimed they had done it and hung it in my room, then claimed they lost it, then found it, but it wasn't done? Exhausting! In the following days/towns I have been lured by the claims of laundry service, or just coin operated machines...I'm not afraid! But each time, no:( so I am ready. I head down to where Ursula showed me the machines were, she was even so sweet as to say that she'll change out the clothes-seriously? I can't have her doing my laundry! When I get to the laundry room, there's a woman who says she's finished with the machines. "Oh! I don't want to rush you." "Oh, please! I'm Ursula's mom!" The scoop is she comes and cleans and helps out. (mom, we could so do this except I don't think either of
us wants to clean!) Anyway, she is darling and says yes! Ursula will change out the clothes...but I have a dress and scarf that can't go in the dryer. Don't worry! It's her job...no not her job, but she will...oh please! I'm the mom!
There's a sign by the washer/dryer that reads "Please don't feed our dog, Monte" but he is so cute! When I was waiting to check in, he let himself in the front door;) now he's just trotting around (total prancing pony, Dad!) I love hearing his little paws hit the hard wood! Sheryl (Ursula's mom) says he's a beggar and he will let himself in to the unlocked (unused) rooms and eat the chocolate off the pillow. She knows because the evidence appears on their walks. I am falling in love with Monte!
I decide I'll take a long walk but not so long that I am tying up the machines. This town is so darling! Jackie mentioned that she went to summer camp here-Bridget! Kristin! my girls need to come here! I know it's a long flight, but I'll hold their hands the whole way;) then I'll just stay in case one of them gets homesick! Along the walk I see a pretty green house-it's exactly how you'd want a Swiss chalet to look. It's called Lidia. It makes me think of a little girl that Guinness and I used to walk by. Her house was on our route. One day she had all of these beautiful chalk drawings all over the sidewalk and driveway-obviously I can't walk over these masterpieces, but she does. She comes out to tell Guinness and I her name (Lydia!), show us all her drawings and let us know that she'd like a little brother! I hope she got him! Little biters are fun:)
I also pass a little fenced in area that has a shack in it?? When I get closer, I see that there are two goats inside! Julie and Marta. There are hilarious and come rushing over to say hello. Jules, I may have fallen off a mountain here, but you've turned into a goat! But a very cute one;) I walk a little further and see a sign pointing to "Sunny Days" ....here I go! Sunny days, sweeping the clouds away...! (Actually a great sing to sing while walking through this town-it's so happy it makes you skip!) Reminds me of watching Big Bird (a couple times;)) on the trip from KC to Chicago! As I'm singing (inside my head) and smiling (like the village idiot) a lab comes my way. It breaks my heart to think Guinness is gone and has been gone so long;( But just then, I see a little house that reminds me of you Millie. The owner has hung freshly cut branches of pine tree outside the windows and decorated them for Christmas! It's so pretty-totally reminds me of something you'd do!
A couple houses down there's a cow in the front yard. A fiberglass cow, painted red with the white Swiss cross all over it. It's just like being in Kansas City!
There's a huge open park where people are playing. Overhead a helicopter flies by...I wonder if Ryry dislikes helicopters as much now that her ears are better? These are the complex thoughts in my head. That and clean laundry! I am soooo excited!
Home to clean laundry! Hooray! Not only is it clean, but warm! And the two things that couldn't be dried? Ursula had them over a radiator-perfect! I take everything upstairs to my room, lay it out and just smell it! Seriously, how blessed am I?!
I get dressed in my clean warm clothes and head out for dinner. It is raining hard, so I guess I won't sit outside....like I would...I think it's 1degree. It's raining, with purpose! Ow! I go to Baren's or fondue. As I'm seated I can't believe I'm hearing Radio Gaga! It's following me! The other waitress is talking to herself while resetting a table and nearly lit the placemat on fire. I don't think she has any idea....just moving about her day/night.
Remember the movie The Whole nine/ten yards...Gogoli or some such? This guy has that exact voice! It's cracking me up! Sean, what is his name?!
This is drastically different from last night. I wanted a comparison and I got it. The bread isn't as fresh or tasty...and neither is the cheese. Where I had fantastic service last night, tonight is dismal;( but it was a good glass of wine and as days go, this was a pretty good one! Can't wait to explore on a mountain top tomorrow. Ursula said to come down in the morning, we'll assess the fog and she'll give me suggestions. love it! I want to take Monte with me;)
Tuesday, January 31, 2012
Out in Zurich!
I have been debating whether or not to go out tonight. Oops! Did I mention I'm in Zurich? For one, I need to catch up on blogging....I think I'm still in Berlin? For the other, I could save money! Here's how I know it was the right decision to come out and come to this particular restaurant...the tram I needed to take leaves from two blocks away and goes straight there...after getting lost all day, I can handle that! When I get off the tram, I wander-shocker! But there are the most beautiful sops. One antique jewelry store has a beautifully printed sign that says "Sorry We're Closed" I reply "I'm sorrier I don't have the millions I'd need to successfully shop here!" but I can afford to drool! I find the street I need! And just to cement it, I see a girl smoking outside-hooray its smoke free inside! And I pass a ballet store and see the cutest littlest tutus and think of my girls;)
Haven't had a bite and I love it! Here's why...I walk in and the maitre d doesn't make me feel odd for choosing a fondue restaurant to eat in alone (or make me feel odd for eating alone at all-which occasionally happens) instead he sweeps his arms between two tables finally settling on the nicer one, in the older part of the restaurant-perfect! Then comes my waiter. He is darling, twinkle in his eye the whole bit. Would I like to start with a drink? (he hadn't met me;)) I ask about red wine, he suggests Swiss. Thank God. Why would I want to have anything else. It's a very reasonable very yummy Swiss wine. I'm a happy girl! I ask if cheese fondue can be prepared for one...of course! He suggests I start with a mixed salad. Has he been following me? I've been craving greens all day! Not an ordinary green salad it has mixed greens with a really yummy vinaigrette-kinda reminds me of the champagne vinaigrette I made a couple months ago. Very light!
The friends who were holding hands two minutes ago are not practically yelling at each other across the table. Kinda glad they already got their check! Ooh now they're happy again! One has given the other a gift! The table across from them sighs when they leave.
The couple who takes their place is a man from New York and a woman he shrugs off as being European. She's French and very pretty. I'd say they're in their late 60s early 70s. He says Kansas City is a great place to leave. He's never been. Gotta love New York! It's only 8:45 and this KC girl is not yawning in her water glass:) nor does she have a comb over! He is very important and keeps letting his date know. He "deals with" the CEO of McDonalds, his friend is an attorney for Obama, another for Ruth Madoff. Have you ever wondered about that surname? Made off?
Oh I love my waiter! He's been over to double check my cheese and wine and me! In seeing this, The Combover messes with their fondue set. My waiter fixes it. After he walks away, C calls him an idiot. Clearly! How could a Swiss waiter in a Swiss restaurant known for fondue know more about it than him! Now he's pissed that his son is getting married. Why does he want to settle down? And why is he in Afghanistan (serving his country)? C hates war zones. I HAVE to stop listening. He's crazy and pompous. Bummer he's taken. Although, I don't know. I haven't heard the woman's voice since they sat down! She's so going on my prayer list tomorrow! They're both very nice when they leave (she recommends Eat, Pray, Love and Rome!). Yes, I'm still here. For one, I'm enjoying my wine, life, the fact it's not raining inside and the tall blonde has essentially challenged me to stay until midnight when they close! I won't. I'm going to pay the check right now and go home and behave;)
Ugh! This guy should run. He's figured out every reason no one else is good enough. Don't be silly! He tells her about one candidate. Then "I'm a dinner jacket" He's not saying that he's just playing... Ahmadinejad!
He also ends up telling her how expensive dinner will be tonight. Beyyyyyyoooond tacky! I always remember, Mom, that you said Russy never wanted anyone to feel guilty about an experience. Of course, we know, guilt is a wasted emotion!
Ooooooh what can be better than cheese and bread and wine!! It's a rhetorical question! My mother reads this blog, as does my grandmother! Honestly, I can think of nothing better! I'm a happy girl! Happier still that my waiter has no plans to rush! How do you rush fondue? And I haven't had it since 2003! Oh, please! I can tell you where it was and what I was wearing;) this is sooo much better, yum!
I should mention that my waiter is training a waitress. It's odd because he's probably 60-ish,salt-and-pepper hair and a smaller man, she's probably 40-ish and a very tall blonde, the table she's practicing on encourages her to share a drink with them,which she does. Lauren, I remember you doing that at Figlio's on the Plaza when I was dating Billy! Hilarious!
Ahhh, finally a diver down! You have to do that at least once when eating fondue, and when you're eating it on your own, it is your sole responsibility! I've done it, retrieved it, that probably means check please, which is a good thing...who couldn't sit and twirl cheese on bread all night? My waiter is singing;) it's not one of those cheesy (no pun intended) restaurants where waiters do that, he's just happy;) I love it!
As I'm leaving, the maitre d, my waiter and the waitress all wave goodbye, smiling. Love this place! Totally coming back:) outside, it almost feels warmer than earlier. As I step outside I'm immediately at Church. It's beautiful and there's a bridge leading over the river to another beautiful church. I'll take that walk! The chimes in the church I'm walking toward immediately start chiming. Of course they do! What a good sign. The church is locked, but it's 11:45 on a Monday, that's not surprising. Above the door is a depiction of Mary and Joseph and a few others looking at baby Jesus in his cradle. I think they're like any other group of people, admiring a beautiful baby, wondering what he'll do, what he'll become. Of course this makes me think...no candles tonight boys, but I'm holding my rosary sending prayers up for each of you.
I walk back minding the path of the train but enjoying/preferring the walk. This is another great walking town;) And a great shopping town! I decide midnight is the perfect time for me to shop! I can see everything and buy nothing;)
Haven't had a bite and I love it! Here's why...I walk in and the maitre d doesn't make me feel odd for choosing a fondue restaurant to eat in alone (or make me feel odd for eating alone at all-which occasionally happens) instead he sweeps his arms between two tables finally settling on the nicer one, in the older part of the restaurant-perfect! Then comes my waiter. He is darling, twinkle in his eye the whole bit. Would I like to start with a drink? (he hadn't met me;)) I ask about red wine, he suggests Swiss. Thank God. Why would I want to have anything else. It's a very reasonable very yummy Swiss wine. I'm a happy girl! I ask if cheese fondue can be prepared for one...of course! He suggests I start with a mixed salad. Has he been following me? I've been craving greens all day! Not an ordinary green salad it has mixed greens with a really yummy vinaigrette-kinda reminds me of the champagne vinaigrette I made a couple months ago. Very light!
The friends who were holding hands two minutes ago are not practically yelling at each other across the table. Kinda glad they already got their check! Ooh now they're happy again! One has given the other a gift! The table across from them sighs when they leave.
The couple who takes their place is a man from New York and a woman he shrugs off as being European. She's French and very pretty. I'd say they're in their late 60s early 70s. He says Kansas City is a great place to leave. He's never been. Gotta love New York! It's only 8:45 and this KC girl is not yawning in her water glass:) nor does she have a comb over! He is very important and keeps letting his date know. He "deals with" the CEO of McDonalds, his friend is an attorney for Obama, another for Ruth Madoff. Have you ever wondered about that surname? Made off?
Oh I love my waiter! He's been over to double check my cheese and wine and me! In seeing this, The Combover messes with their fondue set. My waiter fixes it. After he walks away, C calls him an idiot. Clearly! How could a Swiss waiter in a Swiss restaurant known for fondue know more about it than him! Now he's pissed that his son is getting married. Why does he want to settle down? And why is he in Afghanistan (serving his country)? C hates war zones. I HAVE to stop listening. He's crazy and pompous. Bummer he's taken. Although, I don't know. I haven't heard the woman's voice since they sat down! She's so going on my prayer list tomorrow! They're both very nice when they leave (she recommends Eat, Pray, Love and Rome!). Yes, I'm still here. For one, I'm enjoying my wine, life, the fact it's not raining inside and the tall blonde has essentially challenged me to stay until midnight when they close! I won't. I'm going to pay the check right now and go home and behave;)
Ugh! This guy should run. He's figured out every reason no one else is good enough. Don't be silly! He tells her about one candidate. Then "I'm a dinner jacket" He's not saying that he's just playing... Ahmadinejad!
He also ends up telling her how expensive dinner will be tonight. Beyyyyyyoooond tacky! I always remember, Mom, that you said Russy never wanted anyone to feel guilty about an experience. Of course, we know, guilt is a wasted emotion!
Ooooooh what can be better than cheese and bread and wine!! It's a rhetorical question! My mother reads this blog, as does my grandmother! Honestly, I can think of nothing better! I'm a happy girl! Happier still that my waiter has no plans to rush! How do you rush fondue? And I haven't had it since 2003! Oh, please! I can tell you where it was and what I was wearing;) this is sooo much better, yum!
I should mention that my waiter is training a waitress. It's odd because he's probably 60-ish,salt-and-pepper hair and a smaller man, she's probably 40-ish and a very tall blonde, the table she's practicing on encourages her to share a drink with them,which she does. Lauren, I remember you doing that at Figlio's on the Plaza when I was dating Billy! Hilarious!
Ahhh, finally a diver down! You have to do that at least once when eating fondue, and when you're eating it on your own, it is your sole responsibility! I've done it, retrieved it, that probably means check please, which is a good thing...who couldn't sit and twirl cheese on bread all night? My waiter is singing;) it's not one of those cheesy (no pun intended) restaurants where waiters do that, he's just happy;) I love it!
As I'm leaving, the maitre d, my waiter and the waitress all wave goodbye, smiling. Love this place! Totally coming back:) outside, it almost feels warmer than earlier. As I step outside I'm immediately at Church. It's beautiful and there's a bridge leading over the river to another beautiful church. I'll take that walk! The chimes in the church I'm walking toward immediately start chiming. Of course they do! What a good sign. The church is locked, but it's 11:45 on a Monday, that's not surprising. Above the door is a depiction of Mary and Joseph and a few others looking at baby Jesus in his cradle. I think they're like any other group of people, admiring a beautiful baby, wondering what he'll do, what he'll become. Of course this makes me think...no candles tonight boys, but I'm holding my rosary sending prayers up for each of you.
I walk back minding the path of the train but enjoying/preferring the walk. This is another great walking town;) And a great shopping town! I decide midnight is the perfect time for me to shop! I can see everything and buy nothing;)
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