Wednesday, January 4, 2012

Cork, Killarney and Blarney!

I'm happy to report that as the bus pulled out of Cork to Blarney it drove past Pat Buckley's just as Keith was letting himself in! Looks like he's survived the night. I hope the same for Frank:)  as the bus meandered down these narrow roads i was wondering how they fit? It seems like we are going to bump into a  building or car at any moment. Just then, an SUV jumped the curb so as to not be hit head on by our bus;)
The update on the weather is a little dismal. Winds are 160 km/hr roads are closed up north and over 6000 without power:( its expected to settle down a bit in a couple of days.
I know you'll be shocked to hear it, but  I've never been to Blarney! Never kissed the stone! 
So all this chattyness? Completely me! Now I'm on my way! Quick trip from Cork and I'm sitting a stair or two above most of the seats so I can see the gorgeous countryside as we roll through. It is cold and rainy today.  Entrance to Blarney Castle is not very expensive and you get to move at your own pace, which is good because some crazy person did not think to check her backpack before climbing the stairs-ok, it was me. What was I thinking? If you've been, you know that the staircase is very narrow and spirals all the way up (and down!) . My backpack is 24 inches tall and quite round maybe 36 inches when it's full. I nearly got stuck! But it's a gorgeous view and well worth the climb. The kiss is easy! So much has been said about it in travel books, I thought it would be harder. Maybe it's just the experts at the top-two older gentlemen, one snapping pictures and the other telling you exactly what to do. I'm not sure the pictures do me justice, but I'm excited to now officially have the gift of eloquence:) I'm sure it came in handy at the stable yard cafe. Now it's truly very cold and I'm very wet from the rain walking through the gardens. I stepped into the cafe for a hot drink and met a lovely woman named Carmel. She's a divorced mom of three (Michael, a police officer, Eileen, also police officer and a speaker of truths-men only think with their mickeys! and her youngest, Dennis).  We were talking about safety, and I showed her my rosary from Mom and St. Christopher medal from Sean ad Megan. Then we got to talking about sisters-she is blessed with four. I'm blessed with two on my way to having a third:) Your children are blessed to have you, Carmel. 
In leaving the castle on the way to browse Blarney Woolen Mills, I saw a woman snapping pictures and offered to take one with her in it. Loved meeting Debbie! Today is her 50th birthday and she's visiting from Houston. Turns out we were on the same flight over. 
We talked about being single women traveling. I mentioned that not everyone was enthused when I said I was coming over by myself and we talked about how life brings you here. I mentioned selling the house donating/selling pretty much all of the "stuff" in it. She had a similar but more unfortunate version as her home was hit by hurricane Ike. She was able to put a couple of things in the trunk of her Mustang, grab her daughter and her two dogs and head to Dallas. We agreed on the feeling of this-freedom! Saoirse! Debbie you're headed to Cork and I'm headed to Killarney but I will raise a pint to wish you a happy birthday and Saoirse! And I'm also going to do my best to track down the skinny Santa called Kat when I'm in Belfast! SO glad to have the information and really glad to have met you!

So here's the scoop on the pint my mom asked me to have with her friend, Carole. I've arrived in Killarney and after checking in at Failte House I walked until I found The Laurels. I ordered a pint and inquired after Conn O'Leary. The bartender goes to find him. There is a boy in the pub  with  his mum-he is exactly like a young Danny Koppers:)  Prayers are up and my pint is lifted sending good health to you and love to you and your mom. 
Soon  enough Conn came down both to see me and retrieve two bottles of wine for "the countess of chaos and confusion who's entertaining upstairs tonight". It's clear that I'm going to love meeting this man. Here's how he knows Carole...he was training a bar man who did not have the personality for it on a cold rainy winter night (just like tonight except there were no customers in the pub). Two American women walk in. The bar man stoically pours them a drink "and folds his arms like a wooden Indian." So Conn writes on a cardboard coaster a little something to help the man have a personality. It says "if it happens to rain tomorrow, marry me. Wear a white dress or t-shirt, whatever you've got in your suitcase." he tells him to give the folded up message to one of the American women. The note goes to Carole. She reads it and hands it to her friend, fairly confident it hasn't come from this man. Out peeks Conn from around the pedestal. From then on, Carole visited Conn at The Laurels  in Killarney whenever she visited Ireland. After she passed some of her ashes were brought here. So, at least half dozen times a year, says Conn, someone comes in to have a pint with Carole. She's tucked in a beautiful Irish ceramic that Conn sealed himself with a lovely picture of Carole and a granddaughter placed on the bottom. I love this country! And what a legacy Carole has! I've had my pint to toast her, but I'll be coming back after a little live music down the road to have another pint and find out more about Conn O'Leary. There's a story or two there I'm sure! Even if you don't know Carole, it's a great pub! Come make your own story:)

My team won...I have to pick a team to watch the game, so I headed to Dan Linegan's pub to watch the game since it was too early for live music. I picked Manchester City over Liverpool and instantly regretted it. I'd rather Liverpool win , but if I'd put money down and there are lots of places to do that, I'd have won;) while at the pub I met John and Gary: Ireland should be the wealthiest nation in the world; there are no jobs in the world except in Australia; English football sucks compared to Gaelic; I should marry an Irishman.

Back to The Laurels. Straight away Kate says "oh you're looking for my father?" and down comes Conn ready to have a drink to honor Carole and ready to hear my story.  I feel it necessary to tell him how my mom knows Carole and show him picture of my mom. "that's your mum?!" yep, she's gorgeous-mom he's expecting a visit. Let me tell you his nun joke before you do. A young postulate heads to the reverend mother's office. "I'm in trouble." she says. The mother asks about the issue. "I'm not regular. It's been four days without movement." "no problem. Take one of these pills every three hours and you should be okay." we'll the young nun gets confused and takes all three at the same time. Things start moving. It's not good. She goes back to the reverend mother and tells her how horrible things have gone in the toilet and in fact she has passed an iron stake. "impossible." says the Mother. "Come and see!" says the postulate. Rushing into the bathroom, the Mother is overwhelmed by the smell. "Why wouldn't you think to open a window? Ugh!"  But there in the toilet bowl is indeed an iron stake! Looking up the mother sees a crucifix. On it, Jesus has one hand over his nose.

Conn's family history is a great one. In 1916 his grandfather bought a pub-its one-third of the size of the current pub. In the 30s his father bought another pub-now we are up to two-thirds of the current pub. The last bit came in the 70s. Conn feels blessed to have it especially when pubs are closing down all over Ireland. People used to gather at the creamery to get fresh milk, etc at the post to receive their checks and the pub to spend them. The creamery is now automated and with the economy in its current state, fewer people have cars and they certainly don't drive them to the pubs because of the strict driving under the influence laws.  I think I'll start a taxi service straight to The Laurels doors. Clearly I need to live in Killarney. 

Kate gets off the phone and I didn't realize anyone could roll their eyes like that;) her older son is hungry and there's absolutely nothing to eat in the house. He'd like a Betty Crocker chocolate cake. Kate mentions to us that she has scallops and filets in the refrigerator...did I mention her son is thirteen? Some things are the same everywhere! Kate is one of the O'Leary's three daughters, they also have a son. 

Did you know the Irish cannot sit "Indian style"? Evidently it is genetically impossible says Conn.  it's making me question my heritage as I'm sitting that way:( typing this! Not actually at the bar! 

Conn has several thoughts for me in terms of employment and places to go. He suggests being an au pair! I love the idea! Also, teaching English or being the introductory person for Americans traveling abroad. I think I have an agent! And Kate has a website for me;) I love Ireland!

As we finish another drink, Conn says he must go upstairs. Turns out the people his wife of 47 years are entertaining are his in-laws! Kate and I wish him well ;) I thank Kate and head out the door, too. I remember that the pub below my hotel has live music and it should be starting soon! Perfect! I'll have an early night;) wow it's quiet in this pub. Why is the singer saying "one last song" it's probably only  8pm! Ooops! It's almost midnight! How did that happen? I'll blame Conn, it's obvious to me that he's kissed the Barney Stone too! A little Bailey's before heading up the stairs to bed-early! Uhoh...American? By yourself? Where  are you headed? Now we are all singing "going to Kansas City" My new best friends and I have convinced  the singer to do one more song:) I meet Michael Laine and Angela from Essex. They'd like me to come and stay in their caravan, but first another drink? I couldn't! And the pub is closed! The bartender gives me a free voucher to get into the grand hotel-they have different bands playing in each of the three areas of their niteclub. Alright, but no drinks, just dancing and maybe a little singing;) LOVE the band! It's all American music, but they are great and everyone from the age of 17-70 is dancing. Further proof that the 80s are the best era for music;) Thank goodness the bar closes at 2 and I go promptly home to bed!

Tomorrow? Probably Ennis and I'm sure it will be an early night;)

1 comment:

  1. Hi Megan!!! I just read your blog to Uncle Johnny...and I know YOU know his humor...he says "she should be looking around while she is there instead of writing"..Oh my, there is nothing and no one like him! Love hearing your experience and living through your words. Well, I will leave you with my Google daily bible verse that was SO appropriate for your visit today with "Carole" and others:
    For where two or three are gathered together in my name, there am I in the midst of them. - Matthew 18:20 PERFECT!
    Happy days, (and nights), happy travels and may the sun shine on you the rest of your trip! Lots of love,
    Valerie

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